Thursday, April 14, 2011

Crystal Eggs

These wonderful crystal Eggs.
What a great way to spend time with a child and make your own crystals.
The whole kit id offered on Figgys site for only 20.00 dollars along with a few other great kits.
Check out the sites and enjoy the science !
Tools and Materials

•Blown-out eggshell (Get the How-To)
•Alum powder
•White glue
•Small paintbrush
•Plastic or glass container
•Egg dye
•Hot water
•Craft stick or spoon
•Latex gloves
•Drying rack or newspaper
Crystal Egg Geode How-To

1. Start by blowing out a large white chicken egg (Get the How-To) and splitting it in half, lengthwise. The egg can be cracked by striking it against a surface or cut with a small pair of scissors. Make sure the inside of the eggshell is clean and dry.

2. With a small paintbrush, apply white glue to the inside and cracked edges of each half of the eggshell and sprinkle with alum powder until completely coated. Set eggshell halves aside to dry overnight.

3. The next day, prepare your growing solution in a glass or plastic container by using a craft stick or spoon to mix 2 cups of very hot water (almost boiling) with an entire packet of powdered egg dye. Be sure to wear latex gloves to protect your hands from the dye. (Tip: Liquid food coloring can also be used to dye the geode -- 30 to 40 drops will adequately saturate the solution.)

4. Add 3/4 cup of alum powder to the hot dye bath and stir until completely dissolved. If there are remaining crystals in the bottom of the container, place the solution in the microwave for a few minutes to dissolve them. This will prevent alum from being drawn away from the geode.

5. Once the alum is completely dissolved, let the solution cool slightly (for about 30 minutes) and then submerge one of the dried, alum-coated eggshells in the growing solution, allowing it to rest on the bottom of the container with the inside of the shell facing up.

6. Set the container aside in a safe place overnight to allow the crystals to grow undisturbed. (Tip: The longer the eggshell is in the solution, the larger the crystals in the geode will be. Twelve to 15 hours will usually result in a perfect geode.)

7. The next day, remove the geode from the growing solution very carefully (as wet crystals are quite fragile), being sure to wear latex gloves to prevent the dye from staining your hands. (Tip: If you are not satisfied with the size of your geode crystals, return the geode to the growing solution and wait a day or two. As water evaporates from the solution, more alum will be deposited in your geode, increasing the size of the crystals.)
8. Place your geode on a drying rack or newspaper and allow to dry completely before handling.
9. To grow a second geode in the other half of the eggshell, simply re-dissolve the crystals remaining at the bottom of the growing solution in the microwave and follow the instructions above starting at step 5.

Additional Tips
Geodes can be grown without using egg dye. The resulting crystals are clear to milky white, like quartz.

Thursday, April 7, 2011

Fabric Flower Tutorial


This pretty fabric flower tutorial is

Quick Red beans and rice Recipe

A traditional meal in the south typically served on Monday night.

Ingredients:
3/4 Vidalia or otherwise sweet onion
2 cans small red beans
1/4 cup white wine
1 teaspoon powdered sage
1 teapoon powdered thyme
2 cloves garlic (crushed)
1-2 tablespoons Cayenne chile powder
3 bay leaves
4 tablespoons brown sugar
2 teaspoons paprika
1/2 teaspoon chipotle (goes a loooong way)
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon black pepper
2 tablespoons fresh parsley (chopped)
10-15 button mushrooms (quartered)
1 diced fine green pepper
1 cup white rice
Leave as is for vegetarian or pick your meat of choice.
Serves 4
Start by caramelizing the onions in a cast iron skillet. Once the onions are done,
de-glaze the pan with white wine. Coarsely chop the onions and add them to a large
pot holding the two cans of small red beans with their liquid on low heat. Add diced green peppers Also,
pour the pan de-glazing liquid into the pot of red beans. As the beans are heating, take
a potato masher and crush just a few of the beans in the pot to make for variety of texture.
Then start seasoning the beans and onions with the sage, thyme, two crushed garlic cloves,
chile powder, paprika chipotle flakes, salt, pepper, bay leaves and sugar. Stir the beans and
evenly mix in the spices then add the mushrooms into the bean mixture.
Heat on medium heat until mushrooms are cooked then ladle over cooked rice
(two cups water per cup of rice and cook until tender) and eat or place beans in
refrigerator over night to let the flavors mix. We like to eat our red beans and rice with spiced shrimp.
I cook the large shrimp in a l;arge fry pan with 3 tablespoons of butter ,5 teasppons of hot sauce,1 teaspoon of cayanne pepper a dash of salt and simmer very low .
Turning once as they turn 1/2 way pink. Approx 4 mins.
 Then put them over the top of the beans and rice.

Wednesday, April 6, 2011

Recycle Seed Starts


The last two weeks have been really warm so of course I got my seeds started.
We have snow today but the seeds are started and will be moved to the cat buckets under plastic in about 3 weeks.
My seeds are started in egg cartons inside recycled cake containers.
I set them on top of the freezer or fridge for a few days until they sprout then move to a towel on the kitcken island for another few weeks.
You just lift the egg cartons out cut apart and plant straight into the soil when there ready.

Recycle Cat Litter Buckets

Many of you have asked do I recycle.
Well of course.
I have a cat and there is nothing better then the cat buckets for ,well,everything.
In the winter they sit on the counter with my herbs growing in them.
In the summer they make great planters with a bit of new soil each year.
WE painted the buckets White and left the handles on .
I drilled holes in one all the way around and use it as a potato bin.
Cat litter buckets !

Tuesday, April 5, 2011

Car Runs On Air ?

Apple BBQ Sauce REcipe

Chicken filet Crochet

INSTRUCTIONS:

Startinq at bottom of pattern chain 103. Chain 3 to turn which will count as first double crochet of first row. Ch 2 more and Double crochet in 9th chain from hook to complete bottom right open square of pattern. Continue following pattern for first row reading pattern right to left. After completing first row, chain 3 to turn to start next row. Continue following pattern until all rows are complete. At end of row 30 fasten off. (See "How to read pattern" below)

MATERIALS (based on crochet cotton size):
Using Crochet Cotton no. 5: about 131 yds, steel crochet hook US size 4
Using Crochet Cotton no. 10: about 116 yds, steel crochet hook US size 7
Using Crochet Cotton no. 20: about 109 yds, steel crochet hook US size 9
Using Crochet Cotton no. 30: about 102 yds, steel crochet hook US size 11
APPROXIMATE FINISHED SIZES:
Using Crochet Cotton size 5 width = 9.4 inches, height = 9.5 inches
Usinq Crochet Cotton size 10: width 7.8 inches, height = 7.5 inches
Using Crochet Cotton size 20 width = 7.5 inches, height = 7.2 inches
Using Crochet Cotton size 30: width = 7.1 inches, height = 6.9 inches
HOW TO READ PATTERN:
Each solid square is equal to 4 double crochets. Each open square is equal to 1 double crochet, followed by 2 chains followed by 1 double crochet. The double crochet at the end of each square also counts as the first double crochet of the next square. For example, a solid square followed by an open square is 4 double crochets, 2 chains, 1 double crochet.


Wednesday, March 23, 2011

FLEXIBLE MOLD

FLEXIBLE MOLD COMPOUND
This is new mold material is much superior to ordinary gelatin (mold glue) and is very easily made. It does not shrink or dry out like ordinary casting gelatins. If made according to directions it will retain all its original qualities indefinitely, and can be remelted when necessary.
FORMULA:
Flake Gelatin . . . . . . . 4 1/2 pounds
Water . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 1/2 pints
Glycerin . . . . . .. . . . . 9 pounds
Glucose . . . . . . . . . . .1 pound
Denatured Alcohol . . 1 ounce
PROCESS: Place the gelatin in a large container and pour the water over same; then cover container with damp cloth to prevent evaporation. Mix up thoroughly with the hands every ten minutes to keep water evenly distributed, otherwise the bottom will absorb too much water and the top portion will dry out and harden. Replace cloth after each mixing. After gelatin is thoroughly softened, squeeze out all surplus water (if any), and place in double boiler and melt. A few minutes after it begins to melt start stirring and keep stirring until the gelatin is all melted and free from lumps. Then add the glycerin (which should have previously been heated) and stir until blended. Continue to stir until all ingredients are thoroughly incorporated and remove from fire. Now add the alcohol and stir until thoroughly blended with the rest of the mixture. The compound is now ready for use. Do not add water when remelting.

A double boiler can easily be made by using two metal buckets or pans, one larger than the other. Put a few stones in the bottom of the larger container and partly fill with water. Then put mold compound into smaller container and place it in large container. There should be enough water in large container to come up at least half way on outside of small container. The stones are to prevent the small container from touching the bottom and thereby burning the mixture. Leave unused material in container in which it was melted.

HOW TO GET THE ABOVE COMPOUND TO MAKE MOLDS: First select the article you desire to duplicate. Almost all articles can be duplicated, such as celluloid novelties, metal toys, dolls, etc. Articles cast in compositions, book-ends, emblems, etc.

If the article to be cast is very simple, with one entire side flat like a book-end, emblem, or plaque, it is only necessary to lay it on some flat, smooth surface, like glass or marble, face up. Place a frame of wood or metal bars around it, having oiled the object and other parts well; then pour the pliable mold composition over it. However, for more complicated things such as door stops and novelties in forms of dogs, cats, dolls, etc., you will have to make a mold in two pieces.

To make two piece molds, plaster should be used to reinforce the mold. To make good molds you must bear in mind that both this compound and rubber gives under the weight of the casting material. Therefore, some means must be used to hold molds made from these materials in shape. It must be made so that the mold can easily be removed from the reinforcing shell so that the mold may then be removed from the casting without damaging it.

After you have applied the molding composition or last coat of rubber and compound starts to set - spread about 1/2 inch thickness of plaster mortar over it with a trowel, let set and then remove it. For full body molds in two parts - make one half, let it stand until set, cut notches in the plaster shell around the edge that will be spliced to the other half and then apply rubber and plaster to the other half. To prevent the plaster sticking, coat the splice edge of the first half with two coats of ordinary rubber cement.
RUBBER MOLDS
GUTTA-PURSHA MOLDS:
Purchase a sheet of GUTTA-PERCHA, about one-fourth of an inch thick. Cut it about size desired. Soak it in NAPTHA (which causes it to swell), then soak it in hot water. This makes the sheet of Gutta-Percha soft and mushy in appearance, somewhat like a wet rag. Then in this condition, press it against your model, slowly but firmly.
When there are small cavities such as the mouth or eyes of a figure, be sure that you get the rubber all the way in . . . the better you press it, the sharper the mold will be.
Try it on a plaque first, for that can be made in one piece mold. When it is sufficiently pressed, have some plaster mixed and pour it over the mold. This will harden quickly and so hold your rubber mold (Gutta-Percha), in place until it gradually dries out. It will then retain its shape. This plaster shell should always be used to hold mold rigid while casts are being made.
To make a mold of a figure in the round (showing both sides) the mold must be made in two pieces, with shell of plaster to hold them in place, same a described previously.

Tuesday, March 22, 2011

Irish Crochet Rose and Shamrock Edging

Irish Crochet Rose and Shamrock Edging 



Pattern Directions -
Abbreviations:
ch = chain
dc = double crochet
dtr = double treble
ea = each
sc = single crochet
sk = skip
sl st = slip stitch
sp = space
sps = spaces
st = stitch
sts = stitches
tr = treble

How To Slip Stitch (sl st) = Insert hook in stitch, wrap thread or yarn over hook, pull thread or yarn through the stitch and through the loop on the hook, at the same time. A slip stitch does not add any height and is used to join a chain or stitch to another place in the crochet piece.

For a double treble (dtr), the yarn or thread is wrapped around the hook 3 times before beginning the stitch. How To Do A Double Treble

In this pattern, (depending on your own crochet tension) each time that it calls for a double treble (dtr) in the second row edging directions, you may find that a triple treble will work better for you (if a double treble isn't going to comfortably reach to the stitch that it's supposed to, then you'll know that it will work better to substitute a triple treble for the double treble in that spot). How To Do A Triple Treble

Materials: Use thread size of your choice or yarn weight of your choice. Some of the most commonly used sizes are:
Size 10 cotton thread with a size 8 steel hook
Sport weight yarn with a size F hook
Worsted weight yarn with a size G hook

Rose Directions
Rose, Starting Chain: Chain 6. Join (with a slip stitch) to form a circle.
Rnd 1: ch 5 (counts as first dc and first ch-2), * Dc in circle, ch 2 **, repeat from * to ** 4 more times, join with sl st in the 3rd ch of the beginning ch-5 of round. (There should be 6 ch-2 spaces in this round.)
Rnd 2: ch 1, sc in same stitch as sl st just made at end of previous round, * 5 dc in next ch-2 sp, sc in next dc, **, repeat from * to ** around.
Rnd 3: ch 1, sl st in base in the back of the sc just made at end of previous row, * ch 5, sc in base at the back of next sc (between petals) **, repeat from * to ** around. (When finished, if the ch-5 loops are in front of the petals, pull on the chain-5 loops so that they are behind the petals, before working the next round.)
Rnd 4: ch 1, then work (sc, 7 dc, sc) all in first ch-5 sp * (sc, 7 dc, sc) all in next ch-5 sp **, repeat from * to ** around.
To finish rose: End off. Weave in ends.

For photos showing how to do parts of the rose pattern above, see this web page: http://web.archive.org/web/20070311190558/http://crochet.about.com/library/weekly/aa030803.htm

Edging Directions -
First, make the number of individual roses that will be needed for the length of the edging.
Edging is started with a shamrock: Chain 18, sl st in the 10th ch, to form a circle with part of the chain. (3 sc, 3 dc, 3 tr) in the ch-10 circle just made (this will cover half of the circle). Next, join to a rose by doing a sl st in the 4th dc (center) of any outside petal of a rose (be sure right side of rose is on the same side as right side of the started shamrock), then continue to crochet the rest of the shamrock circle, as follows: (3 tr, 3 dc, 3 sc) in remainder of the ch-10 circle (first shamrock leaf formed). Ch 10, sl st in the 10th ch of the beginning shamrock chain (this is the same spot as the base of first leaf made), for next leaf: work (3 sc, 3 dc, 6 tr, 3 dc, 3 sc) all in the ch-10 circle just made. When forming third leaf, join to next rose, as follows: Ch 10, sl st in the 10th ch of the beginning shamrock chain, (3 sc, 3 dc, 3 tr) in the ch-10 circle just made (this will cover half of the circle). Next, join to a rose by doing a sl st in the 4th dc (center) of any outside petal of a rose (be sure right side of rose is on the same side as right side of the started shamrock), then continue to crochet the rest of the shamrock circle, as follows: (3 tr, 3 dc, 3 sc) in remainder of the ch-10 circle. Sl st in base of leaf. To form shamrock stem: sc in ea of remaining 8 chains of the beginning ch-18. End off. Weave in end.

Begin another shamrock: Follow directions same as for first shamrock. The only difference is that, when you are ready to slip stitch the first shamrock leaf to a rose, instead of attaching to a new rose, you will be attaching (with a slip stitch) to the right-hand side of the last rose that you attached to the previous shamrock.
Continue for length needed: Continue making additional shamrocks and attaching roses until you have the length that you want for your edging.
Second Row: This row will be worked along the top of the joined roses and shamrocks (the top is the side with the shamrock stems.) Join thread to the center stitch of a petal of the first rose (this should be the petal which is two petals over to the right away from the petal that a shamrock leaf is attached to), ch 8, * dc in center stitch of next petal, ch 4, dtr in the sl stitch connection between the shamrock and the rose, ch 4, dc in center of side of leaf, sl st into end of stem, ch 3, skip 3 sts of stem, sl st in next st, ch 3, dc in center of side of next leaf, ch 4, dtr over connection, ch 4, dc in petal of next rose, ch 4; repeat from *.
Third Row: Ch 1 to turn, sc in ea st of previous row (in other words, sc in ea dc and in ea dtr, with 3 sc in ea ch-3 space and 4 sc in ea ch-4 space).
Fourth Row: ch 6, * skip 3 sts, dc in next sc, ch 3; repeat from *, with dc over dc of first row.
Fifth Row: Ch 1 to turn, sc in sc, 3 sc in ch-3 space, repeat across row.
To finish: End off. Weave in ends.

For comparison, here's what the 1917 Rose and Edging Directions said, exactly as written and in its entirety - 1917 Rose Directions
Materials: Richardson's R. M. C. Cordonnet No. 80 and a No. 12 hook.
For The Roses: Make 6 ch sts, join, forming a circle, 5 ch sts.
First Row: * 1 d c into circle, 2 ch sts; repeat * for 6 sps, join.
Second Row * 1 s c, 5 d c over sp, 1 s c into d c, forming 1 petal; repeat * for 6 petals.
Third Row: * 5 ch sts, 1 s c back of s c between petals; repeat * for 6 loops.
Fourth Row: * 1 s c, 7 d c, 1 s c into each loop completing rose; break thread. Make enough roses for length required.
Edging (1917 Directions): Make the roses. For the Shamrock, make 18 ch sts, sl st into the 10th st, forming circle.
First Row: 3 s c, 3 d c, 3 t c, sl st to center of petal of rose, 3 t c, 3 d c, 3 s c, all into circle, forming 1st leaf, 10 ch sts, sl st into the 10th st, 3 s c, 3 d c, 6 t c, 3 d c, 3 s c into circle, forming 2nd leaf, repeat first leaf joining to next rose, 8 s c over stem; break thread. Join rose and shamrock alternately for the length required.

Second Row: Join thread to center of petal of rose, 6 ch sts, * 1 d c into next petal, 3 ch sts, 1 d t c, over connection between shamrock and rose, 3 ch sts, 1 d c into center of side of leaf, sl st into end of stem, 3 ch sts, skip 3 sts of stem, sl st into next st, 3 ch sts, 1 d c into center of side of next leaf, 3 ch sts, 1 d t c over connection, 3 ch sts, 1 d c into petal, 3 ch sts; repeat *.
Third Row: 1 sc into each st of previous row.
Fourth Row: 7 ch sts, * skip 3 sts, 1 d c into next s c, 3 ch sts; repeat *, making dc over dc of first row.
Fifth Row: 1 sc into each st of previous row.
- - End of 1917 directions.

Thursday, March 17, 2011

Happy Saint Patrick's Day Recipe

CORNED BEEF BRISKET
Ingredients

1 (3-pound) corned beef brisket (uncooked), in brine

10 cups cold water
6 cups dark beer
5 bay leaves crushed
2 teaspoons black peppercorns
2 whole allspice berries
2 whole cloves 1 large head green cabbage (about 2 pounds), cut into 8 thick wedges
8 small new potatoes (about 1 1/4 pounds), halved
4 carrots cut in half
Freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon pickling spice.

Or

Get the one with the spices already in the package.

How to cook
In a large pot place corn beef, spices ,beer and water and bring to a boil.Then turn down and simmer for 3 hours and 45 mins or until fork slides into meat.
NOTE : Do not boil the meat simmer on low for a fork tender textureTransfer the corned beef to a cutting board and cover tightly with foil to keep warm.
Add the cabbage , potatoes and carrots to the cooking liquid and bring to a boil. Lower the
heat and simmer until the vegetables are tender, about 20 minutes.
Using a slotted spoon, transfer the cabbage to a large platter. Slice the corned beef
across the grain of the meat into thin slices. Lay the slices over the cabbage and
surround it with the potatoes. Ladle some of the hot cooking liquid over the
corned beef and season with pepper. Serve immediately with a mustard or horseradish sauce.
Cook's Note: Leftover corned beef makes great corned beef hash.


Horseradish Sauce:

3/4 cup mayonnaise
3/4 cup sour cream
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons jarred grated horseradish (with liquid)
1/2 teaspoon grated lemon zest
2 teaspoons kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper


In a small bowl, mix together the mayonnaise, sour cream, horseradish,
zest, and 2 teaspoons salt. Season generously with pepper to taste.
Refrigerate the horseradish sauce for at least 30 minutes before serving.
Yield: about 1 3/4 cups

Tuesday, March 15, 2011

Cute Mothers Day Idea Candy Shoe Box

Found this very cute  shoe candy box on a blog.
This would make a great mothers day gift or friends gift anytime to cheer up that special friend.

Monday, March 14, 2011

Flowers From Egg Cartons

Two Kid friendly egg carton projects.
First

Tutorial can be found HERE
Second a simple version.
Make Tulips with Old Egg Cartons


This is an easy project kids can do by themselves or with very little help, and these fs make a great Mother's Day present. Make a bunch for a lovely Spring bouquet!

Kid Tested!
You will need:
Clean cardboard egg cartons
Scissors
Green chenille (pipe cleaners)
Elmer's glue
Paint

Cut the egg carton into separate cups, leaving some of the middle "pop-up" sections. Cut the main cups into the pointed shape of the tulip petals. With the point of the scissors or a sharp pencil, poke a hole in the bottom of each cup. Paint and decorate each cup however you like.

Cut the little center "pop-up" sections between the egg cups into small pointed shapes that will go beneath the tulip cups. Poke a hole in the center of each and paint green.

When the pieces are dry, poke a piece of green chenille through the holes. Tie a loop on the end in the cup so it can't pull back out, and add a dab of glue between the two sections. Shape the chenille into leaf shapes and leave a few inches at the bottom for the stem.

Sunday, March 13, 2011

Paper Daffodils

Paper Daffodils instructions found HERE.
Great Pictures uses punch.


Instructions found HERE.
No punch needed