Tape measure Brooch Tutorial

Cute for a rainy day kids project
scroll down the page for instructions
Found HERE

Clay baby Mobile Tutorial

http://creaturecomfortsblog.com/home/category/tutorials

10 Homemade Laundry Soap Detergent Recipes

10 Homemade Laundry Soap Detergent Recipes

My recipe HE Maytag Washer
1/2 cup baking soda
1/2 cup 20 mule team borax
Throw direct into washer with clothes
I have allergies and wash everything twice.
Once with soap and once without.
If you have a stinky wash load toss 1 cup of baking soida into the wash to remove oders.
Also run a hot wash with just baking soda to remove HE washer smells every two weeks.



Recipe #1
1 quart Water (boiling)
2 cups Bar soap (grated)
2 cups Borax
2 cups Washing Soda
Add finely grated bar soap to the boiling water and stir until soap is melted. You can keep on low heat until soap is melted.
Pour the soap water into a large, clean pail and add the Borax and Washing Soda. Stir well until all is dissolved.
Add 2 gallons of water, stir until well mixed.
Cover pail and use 1/4 cup for each load of laundry. Stir the soap each time you use it (will gel).

Recipe #2
Hot water
1 cup Washing Soda
1/2 cup Borax
1 Soap bar
Grate the bar soap and add to a large saucepan with hot water. Stir over medium-low heat until soap dissolves and is melted.
Fill a 10 gallon pail half full of hot water. Add the melted soap, Borax and Washing soda, stir well until all powder is dissolved. Top the pail up with more hot water.
Use 1 cup per load, stirring soap before each use (will gel).

Recipe #3
Hot water
1/2 cup Washing Soda
1/2 cup Borax
1/3 bar Soap (grated)
In a large pot, heat 3 pints of water. Add the grated bar soap and stir until melted. Then add the washing soda and borax. Stir until powder is dissolved, then remove from heat.
In a 2 gallon clean pail, pour 1 quart of hot water and add the heated soap mixture. Top pail with cold water and stir well.
Use 1/2 cup per load, stirring soap before each use (will gel).

Powdered Laundry Detergent – Recipe #4
2 cups Fels Naptha Soap (finely grated – you could also try the other bar soaps listed at the top)
1 cup Washing Soda
1 cup Borax
Mix well and store in an airtight plastic container.
Use 2 tablespoons per full load.

Recipe #5
Hot water
1 bar (4.5 oz) Ivory Soap – grated
1 cup Washing Soda
In a large saucepan add grated soap and enough hot water to cover. Heat over medium-low heat and stir until soap is melted.
Fill a large pail with 2.5 gallons of hot water, add hot soap mixture. Stir until well mixed.
Then add the washing soda, again stirring until well mixed.
Set aside to cool.
Use 1/2 cup per full load, stirring well before each use (will gel)

Recipe #6
2.5 gallons Water (hot)
1 Bar soap (grated)
3/4 cup Washing Soda
3/4 cup Borax
2 TBS Glycerin
Melt bar soap over medium-low heat topped with water, stir until soap is melted.
In a large pail, pour 2.5 gallons of hot water, add melted soap mixture, washing soda, borax and glycerin. Mix well.
Use 1/2 cup per full load.

Recipe #7
2 cups Bar soap (grated)
2 cups Washing Soda
2 – 2.5 gallons hot water
Melt grated soap in saucepan with water to cover. Heat over medium-low heat and stir until soap is dissolved.
Pour hot water in large pail, add hot soap and washing soda. Stir very well.
Use 1 cup per full load.

Recipe #8
2 gallons Water (hot)
1 bar Soap (grated)
2 cups Baking soda (yes baking soda this time–not washing soda)
Melt grated soap in a saucepan with enough hot water to cover. 
Cook on medium-low heat, stirring frequently until soap is melted.
In a large pail, pour 2 gallons hot water. Add melted soap, stir well.
Then add the baking soda, stir well again.
Use 1/2 cup per full load, 1 cup per very soiled load.

Powdered Laundry Detergent – Recipe #9
12 cups Borax
8 cups Baking Soda
8 cups Washing Soda
8 cups Bar soap (grated)
Mix all ingredients well and store in a sealed tub.
Use 1/8 cup of powder per full load.

Recipe #10 – (Powdered)
1 cup Vinegar (white)
1 cup Baking Soda
1 cup Washing Soda
1/4 cup liquid castile soap
Mix well and store in sealed container.
I find it easiest to pour the liquid soap into the bowl first, 
stirred in the washing soda, then baking soda, then added the vinegar in small batches 
at a time (the recipe foams up at first). The mixture is a thick paste at first that will break
down into a heavy powdered detergent, just keep stirring. There may be some hard lumps,
try to break them down when stirring (it really helps to make sure the baking soda isn’t clumpy when first adding).
I used 1/2 cup per full load with great results.
Liquid Detergents Note
Soap will be lumpy, goopy and gel-like. This is normal. Just give it a good stir before using
. Make sure soap is covered with a lid when not in use. You could also pour the homemade soap
in old (and cleaned) laundry detergent bottles and shake well before each use.

www.thetincat.com/craft.html 
www.thetincat.com
thetincats.blogspot.com/

Tin Cat Brooke

20,000 Leagues Under the Sea Nails

Tutorial found hERE

No-Sew Fleece Octopus Tutorial

Tutorial found HERE 

Cat toys

http://myfantastictoys.blogspot.com/2009/05/cat-toy-plushies.html

Choose a critter and cut out pattern from the paper. Pin pattern pieces to the felt and cut out accordingly. Sewing- A ladder stitch is recommended for best results. 

1. Start out by sewing bird belly to one side of bird half and continue up and around over head until you reach the tail. 2. Continue on with the tail in position until the end, knot, then finish the other side of tail. 
3. Now go back and finish sewing the other side of the bird belly. Wow you can see the bird taking shape! 
4. Sew about 3/4 of the bird base on leaving enough room open to stuff bird. Fill with fiber fill or a premium catnip, finish sewing base on.5.Now your ready for the eyes and wings. Knot thread to position of eye, slide on glass bead and go through to other side and slide on other the bead, pull tightly to create small indentation in felt. Go through a couple of times to securely fasten eyes. (You may choose to glue felt eyes on instead to prevent any injury to your cat.) Clip wings to give the illusion of feathers then fasten to bird body as indicated on pattern. 6. Stitch on bird feet. Voila your finished!! Now go make the other two critters, the same technique may be applied to those as well.

Mini Picture Necklace

How to make a miniature Polaroid photo necklace by luckymaria

Russian Hippo Tutorial

Great tutorial and pattern

It is in Russian so be sure to use google translate to read and print 

Tutorial found HERE

Cat sushi Tutorial

So cute a whole plate of cat Sushi

Fix your kitty a great Christmas Platter this year.

Tutorial found HERE

Mouse cat Toy Tutorial

For your kitty at Christmas time
This cute kitty mouse toy
Tutorial Found hERE

http://www.marthastewart.com/908084/menswear-mouse-toy

Recycle old Books Crafts

Instructions found HERE

Bicycle clock Mod kitch

 BY EAST COAST CREATIVE

There are clocks. And then.....there are clocks. There are clocks that tick and tock and ring and jingle and tell time underwater and sound an alarm. And then there are clocks made from a bicycle wheel with yardstick ruler hands perched on a chalkboard surrounded by roman numerals above a table strategically styled with a bicycle seat. That is one fine clock. And the best part?

How to Found hERE

Recipe for Uncooked Play Dough

1/2 cup salt
1/2 cup water
1 cup flour
food dye (any color, be creative!)
newspaper to cover the surface you're working on

It only takes about 10 minutes to make

Crafters How to make a two part Mold

How to make a clay baby

Spoon Egg Holder

how to Found here

Camera Lens Bling

Too cute !

Check out this great tutorial and then get wild with crystals and ribbons flowers wow Love this one
Found HERE

Halloween Lawn spider to build

Found this easy project on the DIY network.

Check it out

Free Plans

Free Woodworking plans link found HERE

Make your own paint

With cheap, non-toxic ingredients

So where to get the least costly, non-toxic, low-energy paint?

The answer lies in a trip to the milk-bar. A couple of litres of skim milk will form the base for enough paint to begin experimenting. The next stop is the hardware store for some builder's lime (also called slaked or hydrated lime) and plaster of Paris. Apart from some water and your choice of pigment, these are all the ingredients you will need.

There are several variations on what is usually referred to as `milk paint'. One involves mixing lime into a thick paste with a little water, then gradually adding milk until it reaches a paint-like consistency. I was told about this method by a friend of mine, Salvatore, who had used it while growing up in Italy in the 1930's and 40's. Both ingredients were widely available, and used with various pigments, milk paint is attractive and durable. I tried the recipe using bottled skim milk, though Salvatore recommends milk directly from the cow, with the cream skimmed from the top.

Sieve the lime before mixing it with the milk, and let it sit for several hours, though found that it was still quite lumpy. Straining the mixture through muslin makes it much smoother. I used the paint on old unpainted weatherboards, and got good coverage-once it dried it actually looked like paint!

An internet search revealed some other paint recipes. One that I tried consists of plaster of Paris as the main solid ingredient, mixed with a little lime and skim milk. Again, filtering through muslin cloth to remove lumps is a good idea. This paint was similar to the lime paint, but where the lime-only paint was powdery when dry, the plaster of Paris set a lot harder.

Creating colours

There are many options for colouring milk paint. For a straight white, zinc oxide or titanium dioxide are good. Calcium carbonate or chalk will make the paint more opaque. Iron oxide (rust) is easy to manufacture at home from steel wool or iron filings, and gives the paint a nice ochre colour. Many traditional paints used wild berries for colouring. Again, the muslin cloth comes in handy for removing pips. If you're concerned about being able to replicate your colours, you could compromise and buy some ready-made pigment from an art supplies shop.

Cleaning up

Besides the obvious advantage of not having to inhale pungent vapours, cleaning up these paints with water was dead simple. I didn't have to worry too much about tipping the cleaning-up water on the garden, although too much lime can be a bad thing for soil. Lime and milk paint also comes off hands and clothes much more readily than other paint. While lime is alkaline and can cause skin to dry out and feel `burnt' after prolonged contact, it is easy to dip your hands in a bucket while you paint, or wear gloves. If you get lime in your eyes flush them with cold water immediately.

Finishing the surface

One disadvantage of milk paint is that it can be marked by water. Sealing will eliminate this problem, and will make the finish generally easier to clean in `high splash' areas like the kitchen. A range of finishes can be used, including linseed oil and Danish oil. The roughness of the surface caused by particles of lime can be smoothed with steel wool or sandpaper before applying the finish.

What the ingredients do

Why milk and lime? The first reason is that they are cheap and readily available, which is why milk and lime mixes were the most commonly used paint until the mid-1800's. Most importantly, though, they have a synergistic effect that makes great paint. Milk contains a salt called casein, which reacts with calcium in lime to form calcium caseinate, a resin that binds itself with pigments in the paint and the surface the paint is applied to. Many people complain of the great difficulty in removing the bottom layer of paint on old doors and window frames-in many cases, that's well-cured milk paint. The combination also means that once cured, milk paint will no longer be alkaline.

Make your own milk paint:

Home-made paint recipes

Basic lime and milk paint

Mix in one part of lime with twelve parts of skim milk (you can measure by either weight or volume). Add pigment until desired colour is achieved.

Lime, milk and plaster of Paris paint

Ingredients:

Skim milk 1.5 cups

Lime 30 g

Plaster of Paris 240 g

Pigment

Mix skim milk with lime while stirring briskly until the lime is thoroughly dispersed.

Add plaster of Paris and pigment until desired colour is achieved

Notes:

Allow the mixture to sit for an hour or until it stops bubbling.

When painting, stir the mixture every five minutes to prevent the solid ingredients settling.

Washing up

Use water, and a little soap. Unlike commercial synthetic paints, the residue can safely be poured onto the garden, though be careful not to tip too much lime on one area.

OUT SPOT !

Stain Guidelines If you know what type of stain is on the cloth, the following suggestions are very helpful in removing new and sometimes older stains.

Scorch/Burn Marks Scorching permanently damages the fabric. The heat burns and weakens the fibers, and can also melt manufactured fibers, such as polyester. If the damage is slight you might be able to improve the look. Brush the area to remove any charring. If the tablecloth is washable, rub liquid detergent into the scorched area. Launder. If the stain remains, bleach with an all-fabric non-chlorine bleach.

Alcoholic Drinks, Wine Launder with detergent in the hottest water safe for the fabric. If it is a new stain, do not use soap (bar, flake, or detergents containing natural soap), since soap could make the stain permanent or at least much more difficult to remove. If it is an old stain, soak in a solution of water with one half of a scoop of powered non-chlorine bleach. Watch carefully. Soak for at least 2 hours, (more if necessary). Line dry in sun. Soak tough stains for 30 minutes in 1 quart of warm water and 1 teaspoon of enzyme presoak product. The removal of old or set-in stains may require washing with non-chlorine powdered bleach that is safe for the fabric. Always check for colorfastness first. If all the sugars from the wine or alcohol are not removed, a brown stain will appear when the fabric is heated in the dryer or is ironed, as the sugar becomes caramelized in the heat.

Tomato-based Stains Saturate the area with pretreatment laundry stain remover. Wait a couple of minutes for the product to penetrate the stain. For stubborn stains, rub with heavy-duty liquid detergent. Launder immediately. If the stain remains, soak the entire tablecloth in a diluted solution of all-fabric powered bleach. Be aware that all the colors may lighten. If the stain persists and the tablecloth is white or colorfast, soak in a diluted solution of liquid chlorine bleach and water. However, be sure to read the tablecloth label regarding the use of bleach. Bleach can damage some dyes and prints, and bleaching damage is irreversible. Also, if the stain is not removed in 15 minutes, it cannot be removed by bleaching and further bleaching will only weaken the fabric.

Blood Treat new blood stains immediately! Flush cold water through the stain and scrape off crusted material. Soak for 15 minutes in a mixture of 1 quart lukewarm water, 1/2 teaspoon liquid hand dish washing detergent, and 1 tablespoon ammonia. Use cool/lukewarm water. Rub gently from the back to loosen stain. Soak another 15 minutes in above mixture. Rinse. Soak in an enzyme product for at least 30 minutes. Soak aged stains for several hours. Launder normally. If the blood stain is not completely removed by this process, wet the stain with hydrogen peroxide and a few drops of ammonia. Caution: Do not leave this mixture on the cloth longer than 15 minutes. Rinse with cool water. If the blood stain has dried, PRE-treat the area with PRE-wash stain remover, liquid laundry detergent, or a paste of granular laundry product and water. Launder using bleach that is safe for the type of fabric.

Candle Wax Harden the wax by rubbing with ice. Remove the surface wax by carefully scraping with the dull edge of a butter knife, if that doesn't work, you can try the next suggestion. Sandwich the wax stain between folded paper towels and press down lightly on top of the towel with a warm (not hot) iron. Replace the paper towels frequently to absorb more wax and to prevent transferring the stain to new areas. Continue as long as wax is being removed.

Yellowing, Graying If it is an old stain, soak the tablecloth in a solution of water with one half of a scoop of powered non-chlorine bleach. Watch carefully. Look for signs that the dye is colorfast. Soak for at least 4 hours, (more if necessary). Line dry in the sun. Repeat the process if still yellow.

Dye Stains, Dye Transfer Soak the entire tablecloth in a diluted solution of powered non-chlorine bleach. If the stain remains and the tablecloth is colorfast, soak the entire tablecloth in a dilute solution of liquid chlorine bleach and water. Again, test for colorfastness first and watch carefully. Not recommended for tablecloths that were made prior to 1935. Check the "Dating Your Tablecloth" section for clues as to the approximate age. Caution: Chlorine bleach may change the color of the tablecloth or cause irreversible damage especially in PRE-1940s tablecloths. Therefore, it is important to check for color fastness before using. If the stain does not come out within 15 minutes of bleaching, it cannot be removed by this method and any further exposure to bleach will weaken the fabric and remove the color. I do not recommend this for general stain removal. Note: To check for color fastness to liquid chlorine bleach, mix 1 tablespoon of bleach with 1/4 cup of water. Use an eyedropper to put a drop of this solution on a hidden seam in the tablecloth. Let it stand two minutes, then blot dry. If there is no color change, it is probably safe to use the product. Powdered non-chorine bleaches have directions for colorfastness tests on their boxes. There are also a number of dye removers/strippers, which are available in drug and grocery stores. However, color removers will also take out fabric colors as well as the stain so be careful.

Mildew Mildew is a growing organism that must have warmth, darkness, and moisture to survive. Mildew actually eats cotton and linen fibers and can also attack manufactured fibers, causing permanent damage and a weakening of fibers and fabrics. To treat mildew, first carefully brush or shake off mildewed area. It is very difficult to remove and will damage the value of a vintage tablecloth. PRE-treat the stains by rubbing the areas with a heavy-duty liquid detergent. Then launder in the hottest water safe for the fabric, using bleach safe for fabric. Always check for colorfastness and for the age of the tablecloth before using any type of bleach. Let the item dry in the sun. Badly mildewed fabric may be damaged beyond repair. Old stains may respond to flushing with dry cleaning fluids. Carefully read and follow the instructions on the product label.

Rust Removing rust stains can be difficult. These stains cannot be removed with normal laundering. Do not use chlorine bleach, as chlorine bleach will make the stains permanent. Small stains may be removed with a few drops of a commercial rust remover, or by repeated applications of lemon juice and salt on the stain. Do not let the fabric dry between applications.

Coffee, Tea Saturate the stain with a pretreatment stain remover. Rub the stain with a heavy-duty liquid detergent and launder in the hottest water safe for the fabric. If it is a new stain, do not use soap (bar, flake, or detergents containing natural soap), since soap could make the stain permanent or at least more difficult to remove. If it is an old stain, soak the tablecloth in a solution of water with one half scoop powered non-chlorine bleach. Watch carefully. Soak for at least 2 hours, (more if necessary). Line dry in sun.

You can also use liquid laundry detergent and oxygen color safe bleach or non-chlorine powdered bleach. If safe for the specific fabric try this old home remedy, boil fabric in a solution of 4 teaspoons of cream of tartar per pint of water. Rinse thoroughly. Rust removers that contain hydrofluoric acid are extremely toxic, can burn the skin, and will damage the porcelain finish on appliances and sinks. Use as a last resort. I do recommend using the Carbona Rust remover products, but again, watch your cloths carefully.

Smoke/Odors Some of the older tablecloths that have been stored for many years have that "old smell" and yellowing in the creases. You will also find tablecloths that have been in a smoker's home with that "tell tale" smell. I have not had any problems removing either of these problems from my tablecloths. If the tablecloth is not seriously frayed or damaged in any other way, soak the tablecloth is a solution of tepid water and one scoop of non-chlorine powdered bleach or Oxy. Watch carefully for any signs of dyes fading. Remove immediately if you see a green or red "tinged" water. Soak overnight and place outside out all day in the sun. Repeat if necessary, but it should work in one treatment.