1 cup water
1/4 cup flour
5 cups lightly boiling water
Mix flour into one cup water until mixture is thin and runny, stir into boiling water. Gently boil and stir for 3 minutes. Cool before using. (Use with newspaper/newsprint strips for Paper mache).
Easter bunny face
Paint a small egg form a solid color. Once dry paint face details with a water based craft paint.
Cut out ear shapes and attach to your bunny with glue.
You can attach head to a larger form to make a body or just make the head.
Using water based craft paints, paint egg forms various Easter egg colors. These make great table decorations, or you can slip a surprise inside for special Egg hunts.
Paint one base color first, allow to dry then paint on designs. You can also glue on ribbons or other Easter decorations.
Using a very large form, paint and decorate to look like an Easter Egg. Once completely dry, fill the form with Easter eggs and treats from the open end of the form. Seal with additional strips of newsprint dipped in paper mached paste. Once dry touch up with paint.
Hang your egg with string and allow kids to crack open like a Piniata. Easter eggs and treats inside will come out when broken open.
My Grandma and aunties all used boiled black walnut hulls to wash there black hair in.
They had black hair until there late 90s.
Black Walnut Pound cake
1 (18.25 ounce) package white cake mix
1 (3.4 ounce) package instant vanilla flavor pudding mix
1/3 cup vegetable oil
1 cup water
1 1/4 cups ground black walnuts
1.Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F (175 degrees C). Grease and flour a 9 inch tube pan.
2.In a large bowl, mix together the cake mix, instant pudding, eggs, oil and water for 2 minutes using an electric mixer on medium speed. Stir in the ground walnuts. Pour into the prepared pan.
3.Bake for 50 to 60 minutes in the preheated oven, or until a toothpick inserted into the cake comes out clean. Cool in the pan before inverting onto a plate to serve.
Tip Always freeze my walnuts before grinding them in a food processor.
Black Walnut Cake
2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 cup solid vegetable shortening
1 1/2 cups sugar
2 ripe bananas, mashed
1/4 cup buttermilk
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1 cup chopped black walnuts*
1/2 cup (1 stick) butter, softened
1 cup packed dark brown sugar
1/3 cup heavy cream, plus more as necessary
1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract
1 (16-ounce) box confectioners’ sugar
2 cups finely chopped black walnuts, for garnish (optional)*
Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Grease and flour 2 (9-inch) cake pans.
For the cake: In a medium bowl, stir together flour and baking soda; set aside. Using an electric mixer, cream together shortening and sugar in a bowl until light and fluffy, about 2 to 3 minutes. Add eggs 1 at a time, mixing well after each addition. Mix in mashed bananas, buttermilk, and vanilla. Add flour mixture, mix until just combined. Stir in black walnuts.
Pour into prepared pans. Bake until a toothpick inserted in the center of the cake comes out clean, about 35 minutes. Cool in pans on a cooling rack for 10 minutes. Remove from pans and cool completely.
Meanwhile, prepare frosting. Melt butter in small saucepan. Add brown sugar and 1/3 cup cream. Cook over medium-low heat until the sugar is dissolved, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat and add vanilla. Transfer to a large bowl.
Using a handheld electric mixer, beat in confectioners' sugar a little at a time until smooth. If frosting is too thick, add 1 tablespoon heavy cream at a time until consistency is right. Sandwich 2 layers of cake with frosting. Frost the outside of the cake. Press chopped black walnuts on the sides of the cake, if desired.
*Cook's Note: DO NOT substitute English walnuts for black walnuts.
She has some very fun faux items for sale on her site.
Below are the doirections for general water putty bunnies.
General Directions for Water Putty Rabbits
This beautiful faux-chocolate bunny.
Tools and Materials
Easter bunny chocolate molds
Bamboo skewer or other long, slender stick
File, sandpaper, and/or Dremel tool with a sanding attachment
Durham's water putty
Drill with paint mixer attachment, or paint mixing stick
White primer paint
Brown paint (Martha used liquid acrylic -- a mix of burnt sienna, burnt umber, and white)
Clear satin topcoat
Paint in a variety of colors for details
Ribbon and flowers for embellishing
Faux Chocolate Bunnies How-To
1. Clip the two halves of the mold together with binder clips. Cut the bottom out of the mold, if necessary, to allow pouring of putty mixture.
2. Set the mold upside down in a bucket to keep it upright; clip the mold to the side of the bucket with clothespins to hold it steady.
3. Mix 3 parts Durham's water putty powder to 1 part water. Add putty slowly, in 3 stages. Mix until the putty is the consistency of pancake batter or a little thicker.
4. Pour putty slowly into mold.
5. Use a bamboo skewer to ease putty into all nooks and crannies and eliminate bubbles.
6. Allow to set for 2 to 3 hours.
7. Remove binder clips and open molds to release bunny.
8. Smooth seams using a file, sandpaper, or a Dremel tool with a sanding attachment. Fill in any bubble holes with more putty.
9. Prime with white primer, allow to dry, and paint with brown paint. Apply a clear satin topcoat to the painted bunny for sheen.
10. Paint eyes and other details, and add embellishments like ribbons and flowers, if desired.
Polyester Resin: is a liquid plastic that hardens when a few drops of the catalyst are added to create a chemical reaction. Polyester Resin is durable and is the resin of choice for industrial applications and serious crafters who are experienced in resin casting. This resin is highly toxic and should be used in a well ventilated area using protective masks to avoid inhalation. One main advantage of Polyester Resin is the depth in which it can be poured for larger embed projects. Polyester Resin is cheaper to buy than Epoxy resin as it is generally purchased in larger quantities such as 1lt + tins.
Epoxy Resin: These resins are more frequently used in the crafting and hobby world, they are easy to use with a low toxicity, making them suitable for ventilated craft rooms and work areas. Epoxy resin is perfect for jewelry casting as it has a shallow setting depth, so it will cure quickly when used correctly.
Epoxy resins come in two parts: resin and hardener. The two parts must be mixed in the precise ratio given in the manufacturer's instructions. Imprecise measuring and mixing prevents the epoxy resin from solidifying or curing. Epoxy resin is also self leveling, giving your project a glass like finish without too much technique. More expensive than the polyester resin but a great way to get started for a small batch of projects.
Always handle resins with care, and follow the proper use that is recommended by the manufacturer.
Pigments and Dyes: These come in liquids, powders and pastes . You will need to purchase color dyes that are suitable for your brand of resin. Dye's are added during the mixing process.
Dimensional Molds: These are molds that create a 3D object, such as a heart shaped pendant, bangle or coaster etc. Latex and Plastic Molds can be purchased for resin casting or you can make your own molds, or use items you have around the home.
Latex molds: These are great to use as the flexibility of them means you can literally POP out your resin cast. You may need to experiment with your resin as some resins require a little extra hardener to cure in a latex mold due to the fact that the temperature of the resin is effected because of the latex.
Plastic molds: You can use store bought chocolate molds, specific pendant molds or other similar molds. again these are great to use due to the flexibility.
Home molds: Ice cube trays work well for pendants, chocolate box inlays are a great source of small rounded molds. You can use any durable (heat proof) plastic item you find in your home. You can also use inflexible molds that can be cut or broken away from the casting, such as a glass jar or plastic lunch container.
Mold Release: If you are using a flexible mold there really is not need to add a mold release agent. However a perfect inexpensive release agent is spray cooking oil. Simply give your mold a quick spray and wipe over and it's ready to use.
Flat Objects: You can also pour your resin over flat objects such as scrabble pieces, decorated coasters, trays and flat jewelry pieces.
How to mix: Your resin will come with it's very own set of instructions which you should follow strictly. Basically you will measure the two parts (as per the instructions provided on your product) together and then pour into your mold.
For mixing and measuring use baking spoons and measuring jugs as these will give you an accurate measurement. Wipe out your measuring tools after each use, making sure you have separate tools for the resin and hardener parts.
Plastic disposable bowls, spoons or cups work well as you can discard them after each use. Do not over mix or your resin will be filled with air bubbles. Let your resin rest for a few moments before pouring to avoid extra air.
Air Bubbles: Can be gently tapped out or use a straw and your warm breath to blow over the bubble, this disperses the soft resin and releases the air trapped underneath the surface. Larger projects use a warm setting on your hair dryer or embossing gun.
Embedding items: You can embed all sorts of items to make your resin exciting, from plastic toys to coins, dried foliage and even cake sprinkles.
Photos and Images: Photos and images can easily be embedded into your resin, it is advised to coat your image and photo with a sealer first to prevent the ink dyes from running in your resin. Using white clear drying craft glue is one way to seal your image, you can also use a spray varnish or other archival sealer. Make sure it is completely dried before pouring.
Cleanup: If you have spilled your image, use a acetone cleaner, such as nail varnish remover or a methylated spirits before it cures. Cured resin can be chipped away with knifes or chisels. The easiest way to clean up resin is not to spill it in the first place.
Stained Glass Tulip Cookies
From Woman's Day Magazine 2009
3 sticks (1 1/2 cups) butter, softened
1 cup sugar
1 large egg
2 tsp baking powder
1 tsp each ground ginger and vanilla extract
1/2 tsp salt
4 cups all-purpose flour
30 lollipop sticks
About 50 assorted colors Life Savers or Jolly Ranchers hard candies, each color crushed separately
1. Beat butter and sugar in a large bowl with mixer on medium speed until pale and fluffy. On low speed beat in next 5 ingrdients to combine. Gradually beat in flour until blended.
2. Divide dough in half; shape each into a 1-in.-thick disk. Wrap and refrigerate 30 mijnutes, or until firm enough to roll.
3. Heat oven to 350 degrees F. Line baking sheets(s) with foil; coat with nonstick spray. Have ready a 3 1/4 x 2 1/2-in. tulip cookie cutter.
4. On lightly floured wax paper, with floured rolling pin, roll out 1 disk dough (keep other refrigerated) to 1/4-in. thick. Cut out tulips. Place 2 in. apart on lined baking sheets, with tops of tulips along long edges of sheet. Insert a lollipop stick in bottom of each. Using a small, pointed knife cut "windows" in tulips. Re-roll and cut scraps twice. Repeat with remaining dough.
5. Bake 1 sheet at a time 8 minutes, or until just barely tinged brown at edges. Using a small spoon, fill cutouts with candy until level with top of dough. Brush off stray bits. Bake 4 minutes, or until candy melts.
6. Cool on sheet on a wire rack 7 to 10 minutes until "glass" cools and hardens. Transfer to wire rack to cool completely.
1/4 teaspoon curry
1 teaspoon salt
Dash of pepper
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
1/2 cup finely chopped onion
2/3 cup 1/2 and 1/2 cream
½ pound ground beef
½ pound ground pork
¾ cup cooked rice
6 large cabbage leaves
1 (10-3/4 ounce) can condensed tomato soup
1 tablespoon brown sugar
1 tablespoon lemon juice
In a large bowl combine egg, salt, pepper, Worcestershire sauce, onion, and milk; mix well. Add ground beef, ground pork, and cooked rice; mix together well.
Immerse cabbage leaves in boiling water for 3 minutes or just until limp; drain. Slit the heavy center vein of leaf about 2-½ inches, depending on size of leaf.
Place ½ cup meat mixture on each leaf; fold in sides and roll ends over meat.
Place rolls in 12 x 7-½ x 2-inch baking dish.
Blend together soup, brown sugar, and lemon juice; pour over cabbage rolls.
Bake in moderate oven, 350 degrees, for 1-¼ hours. Baste once or twice with sauce.
Note to spice up add 1 chopped bell pepper to sauce and a dash of hot sauce any will do.
If you enjoying feeding backyard birds, cleaning and maintaining your birdfeeders is an important part of keeping your feathered friends safe and healthy. Wild birds prefer fresh, mold-free birdseed and a safe and convenient place to feed. Clean and well-maintained feeders not only attract more birds, they also reduce the risk of disease.
It's common for wooden feeders to weather and fade over the years. It is not necessary to treat wood feeders with products; however, if you wish to maintain the appearance of your feeder, you can follow these simple directions. Redwood or Cedar Feeders:
Feeders made from these materials are ideal for outside use because of their natural resistance to weathering. Under normal conditions, these woods require very little maintenance, however, they will gradually fade in color as they age. If you want to maintain the original color of the wood, give it a coat of non-toxic wood sealer or linseed oil every few years. Make sure you apply it to the outside area of the feeder only and not to the eating surface of the bird feeders. There are a wide variety of soy-based non-toxic wood sealers currently on the market. If you can't find one locally, check out Green Builder's Supply on the web. Pine Feeders:
Pine feeders also weather nicely, but will fade with time. Again, apply a non-toxic wood sealer or linseed oil as needed. If your feeder needs repainting, remove any loose paint flakes and sand the birdfeeder lightly. Repaint with an eco-friendly paint rated for outdoor use. Make sure the paint you use does not contain lead, zinc, or chromate.
As with all wooden feeders, inspect them for protruding nails and sharp points or edges each time you fill them with seed. Small cuts and scratches on feet and toes can quickly lead to infections. Copper Feeders
Copper is highly resistant to corrosion, and if not preserved, acquires a beautiful green patina over time. Copper cleaners are considered toxic to birds, so if you want to restore the copper to its original luster, try one of these non-toxic recipes: Non-Toxic Copper Cleaner:
Mix 2 tablespoons salt, 1 tablespoon lemon juice and 1 tablespoon vinegar. Rub with sponge and allow to dry. Rinse with hot water and dry with a soft cloth. Or, apply a paste of lemon juice and cream of tartar and leave on for 5 minutes. Wash in warm water and dry with a soft cloth. Keeping Feeders Clean
Cleaning your bird feeders regularly year round is important for the health of the birds.All you really need is a pair of rubber gloves, hot water, scent-free liquid dish soap, a scrub brush, and some white distilled vinegar. Fill a sink or tub with hot soapy water and let the feeder soak in it for 10 or 15 minutes to loosen up any caked-on debris. After soaking, give the feeder a good scrubbing, then rinse well and let it air dry. For tough jobs, refill with clean water and 4 cups of vinegar. Let the feeder soak for 1 hour. Rinse thoroughly and let it air dry. Hummingbird Feeders:
Because hummingbird feeders are filled with a sugar solution, they need to be cleaned more frequently than other types of feeders. This chore is much easier if you start out with a feeder that has parts that are easy to disassemble and clean (stick it in the dishwasher!). Every time you refill your feeder with nectar, wash it out with hot water (no soap). Use small bottle brushes, toothbrushes, pipe cleaners, or cotton swabs to clean visibly dirty nectar ports. Adding a few rice grains or course salt and lemon juice can also be useful scrubbing agents for hard to reach places. Make sure you rinse everything thoroughly. How often you change the nectar depends on the weather.
Temperatures in the 70s = once per week.
Temperature in the 80s = every 3-4 days.
Temperatures in the 90s = every 1-2 days.
At least once a month soak the feeder in full-strength white distilled vinegar and clean with a bottle brush. Rinse well with warm running water. Evidence suggests that using bleach to clean plastics containing polycarbonates (like those found in some feeders) can accelerate the leeching of bisphenol A (BPAs). It's not yet known if this is harmful to birds, but it's better to be safe than sorry and avoid using bleach.
1/2 cup cottage cheese
2 eggs, beaten
7/8 cup Feta cheese
1/2 package phyllo dough, about 8 sheets
3-1/2-ounces olive oil
3 tablespoons flat-leaf parsley, chopped
Pepper, to taste
Crumble feta cheese into a bowl. Add cottage cheese, parsley and eggs and beat together with a fork until well blended. Season with pepper.
Cut phyllo pastry down the longest length into 2-3/4-inch strips. Take 1 strip and cover other strips with a damp tea towel to prevent drying out.
Brush strip with olive oil and put a heaping teaspoon of the cheese mixture on the bottom left-hand corner. Fold over the corn with the filling so it meats the long-side edge and forms a triangle. Continue folding the filling up and over from side to side to form a neat triangle.
Place on an oiled baking sheet and brush with oil. Continue with the remaining phyllo pastry and mixture until all is used.
Bake in a preheated 375 degree oven for 5 to 15 minutes until light golden brown. Serve hot.
Finished Jiffy Popcorn
These are an easy, fast, and inexpensive gift! Great for the office co-workers, children's classmates, post master, school bus driver, etc.
Jiffy Pop Popcorn (these are only $1.00 at Target & Wal-Mart)
Homespun or other type of material/ribbon for bow on handle
1. Save the printable to your computer and open up in a paint program and print off on cardstock (depending on your paint program and printer, you may need to adjust the size so that the circle fits into the Jiffy Pop).
2. Cut the circle out and fit into the Jiffy Pop container by uncrimping the edges and inserting the cardstock and recrimping the edges back to hold it into place. You want to make sure to keep the original circle there as well and just place your cardstock over it.
3. Tie a piece of homespun (or other material/ribbon) to the handle of the Jiffy Popcorn. And you are set to go!
An Easy, Fast, and Inexpensive Gift Idea!
Tip: You can also print a tag off and tie to the handle as a gift tag.
Simple and inexpensive materials are easy to find and fun to combine. A Styrofoam® ball forms the core, a layer of batting is applied and trimmed to the ball, thin yarn is randomly wrapped over, then sewing thread is randomly wrapped on the outside of the ball. These layers produce a cushioned surface to stitch into. Preparation of a ball takes only about 20 minutes.
The Secret... A plain paper strip with no numbers creates all of the patterns! The strip measures the ball in different directions. Each time, the length is the same because it is a ball. Colored glass-headed pins mark the North Pole, South Pole and Equator.
First, the strip is pinned to the ball with the North Pole pin. The strip measures around the ball, the excess is cut off. Then, it is folded in half - half the length of the strip marks the South Pole. Then fold in fourths - a fourth of the strip's length marks the Equator. Pins are placed around the ball against the 1/4 divisions on the strip. This line of pins creates the Equator. The strip is removed from the ball and folded into eighths, and 8 pins may be placed, equally spaced, around the Equator.
Any number of divisions may be made around the Equator - 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, etc. Divisions are also placed between the Poles and the Equator on the mark lines. These create Cube Sides and Pentagon divisions.
This simple method of measuring gives perfect precision to mark the patterns of Temari!
Sample Temari Ball Steps:
foam ball 2-1/2 inches to three inches in diameter
polyester fiberfill batting
fine weight colored yarn
sewing thread - medium spool color to match yarn
DMC Pearl Cotton #5 in selected colors
gold or silver metallic thread
colored glass-headed pins
needles: yarn darners #18, 2-1/4-inch long with large eye
paper strips - 1 per ball, cut to measure 3/8-inch wide (paper cutter and 20 lb. bond copier paper work best)
1. Cut two pieces of batting in 3" x 6" rectangles.
2. Place the rectangles on the foam ball so that their interlocking fit resembles the two pieces of a baseball cover that is sewn together.
3. Pin the batting in place and trim the corners of the rectangular pieces (figure A).
4. Randomly wrap enough colored yarn around the ball to cover the white color of the batting (figure A). Remove the pins.
5. Wrap random colors of sewing thread around the ball to cover the yarn. Stitch the ends of the thread into the ball.
6. Visually divide the ball into North and South hemispheres (figure B). Measuring is the key to successfully dividing the ball. Anywhere on the ball, place a white pin on the spot where you want the North Pole to be.
7. Use the white pin at the North Pole to attach the end of a paper strip, folded to a 3/8-inch width, to the ball.
8. Wrap the paper strip around the middle of the ball so that the strip passes over the South Pole and ends at the North Pole (figure C). To obtain an accurate measurement of the circumference of the ball, repeat this step at several different longitudes. Stick the pin at the very tip of the paper, as indicated.
9. When you are satisfied with your measurement, cut off any excess paper on the strip, so that both ends meet exactly at the North Pole when the strip is wrapped around the ball.
10. With one end still attached to the North Pole, crease the strip in half. In other words, make a fold in the paper where it passes over the South Pole.
11. With scissors, place a tiny notch in the fold (figure D).
12. To find the best location for the South Pole on your ball, wrap the strip around the ball, and place a black pin at the notch you made in step 11. Check the pin placement by wrapping the strip around the ball at several different longitudes. Adjust the location of the black pin as needed. Be patient.
13. To find the Obi Line (i.e., the equator), fold the paper strip in half, and then halve it again (figure E).
14. With scissors, place a tiny notch in the fold.
15. Wrap the strip around the ball again, and place pins around the ball at the notches you made in Step 14 to delineate the equator.
16. Insert another white pin at the North Pole. Remove the first pin and the paper strip.
17. Fold the strip again, but this time in eighths. To do this, simply fold the strip in half three consecutive times.
18. With scissors, place a tiny notch in the fold.
19. Attach one end of the strip to the middle of the ball under one of the pins at the Equator (figure F).
20. Wrap the strip around the equator and attach it to the ball, with the equator pin opposite your beginning point.
21. Using your paper as your guide, create an even line around the ball by placing a pin at each eighth notch on the strip.
22. Using the pins as alignment and spacing guides, wrap metallic threads around the ball to create divisions (figure G). Division threads are attached to the ball where they initially attach to the ball and where they end on the ball. They divide the ball into eight equal vertical sections resembling those of an orange.
23. Measure four wraps of thread around the circumference of the ball.
24. Thread your needle, and knot the thread's end.
25. Enter the needle at the North Pole pin.
26. Using the pins around the equator and the pin at the South Pole as guides, wrap the string around the ball four times so that you've created eight identical divisions around the ball.
27. Stitch the end of the thread into the North Pole.
28. Tack the North and South Pole intersections in place after you have created the sections.
29. Sewing an Obi Line around the equator will keep the eight longitudinal lines in place. Cut a length of thread that is three times the diameter of the ball. This is easily measured by wrapping the thread around the circumference of the ball three times.
30. Thread your needle, knot the thread's end, and sew the beginning of the thread into the ball at one of the pins delineating the equator.
31. Using the equator pins as your guide, wrap the thread once around the ball in a straight line.
32. Wrap the thread around the ball in the same fashion again, but this time, tack down the longitudinal lines from under the ball's surface at each place that they intersect the equator.
33. Repeat Step 31 with the remaining thread, and stitch the end of the thread into the ball at the point where it was first inserted into the ball.
34. Now you are ready to create adesign. One basic stitch will create most of your design. The basic stitch can take many shapes, a square, a zigzag, a triangle or a circle, just by changing its direction (figure H). Most of the patterns are variations of the basic stitch. Because you're sewing on a ball and the surface threads are random, you can go in any direction. You are not limited to up-and-down , side-to-side or flat embroidery stitches (figure I).
35. Use colored pins to divide the lines again when you establish your pattern stitches.
36. Use a long needle to reach under the ball's surface. The needle must have a large eye to accommodate large thread: Pearl Cotton #5 and the metallic gold or silver thread that creates the design.
37. Apply layers of thread shapes using numerical order. Keep track of where you are by pinning little numbered tabs to the ball. These will keep you going in the right direction. It's as easy as following the dots!
38. There are simple tricks that guide threads: little gates to cross through or paper bridges to cross under or over (figure J). Only three basic divisions make all the patterns: 1) the North Pole/South Pole/equator division, 2) a division that applies the six square sides of a cube, and 3) a division that applies pentagons. With these three divisions and the basic stitch, thousands of patterns have evolved. After a few basic lessons, you can begin to create your own patterns with your own colors. The combinations are endless.
More Patterns FoundHERE Thimble instructions found HERE Techniques
1/3 cup butter
1/2 cup creamy peanut butter
3/4 cup packed brown sugar
1 tsp vanilla
1 cup plain / all-purpose flour
1 tsp baking powder
1/4 cup mini chocolate chips (optional)
1.Preheat oven to 180°C. Lightly grease an 8-inch square pan.
2.Melt the butter over low heat. Whisk in the peanut butter and brown sugar. Leave aside to cool for a minute.
3.Whisk in the eggs and vanilla until smooth.
4.Stir in the flour and baking powder. Stir in the chocolate chips, if using.
5.Spread the mixture into the prepared pan, and bake for 20 – 25mins, or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.
Once upon a time, go-carts were a pleasant summer's pastime for many kids, and the pieces used to put them together were varied and often inspired, with necessity being the mother of invention. Today, making a go-cart is approaching the same scientific methods used to craft a Formula I race car, with finely tuned and specially designed motors, and lightweight metal bodies of the most aerodynamic designs.
But for a bit of old-fashioned fun, you can still make a basic, do-it-yourself, gravity powered go-cart for use on a downhill slope, eliminating the need for expensive motors and other hi-tech parts.
The best idea is to first decide what kind of cart you want to make, and research plans on the Internet. The least expensive, would be the old-fashioned carts built on a 2" x 4" wood chassis, with plywood sides and hood. They won't be as fast as those made from modern kits, but they're a great start for children before parents sink a lot of money into something that their kids lose interest in after a while.
Once you have the plans, look around your home, or relatives' and see if you can scavenge the basic wood needed. Your next biggest concerns, will be wheels, steering and brakes. Even without a motor, go-carts can attain high speeds and the driver must have some method of control when they are rolling down a hill at high speed.
Old baby carriages and strollers can be a good source for wheels. Junk yards may have such treasures as old grocery carts that are not only good for wheels, but an excellent handle bar to be mounted on the back for someone to give you that all important push. You might also be able to scavenge a small steering wheel from a lawn tractor, or all terrain vehicle. If the steering mechanism on these has not been destroyed by an accident, you can also pick that up at the same time, and save yourself the extra effort of creating one with wood, screws and joints.
Whichever model of go-cart you choose to make, remember that it is a wheeled vehicle that can reach high speeds. All children using one should be taught how to handle them properly, and should be equipped with a helmet
Lawn mower engine for a go cart
Buy or find the lawnmower (push mowers work best) that you will be getting the donor engine from. Check the engine for major damage and see if it will start up. Check to make sure the pull cord is not jammed (this is a common problem).
Disconnect the blade from the drive shaft on the bottom of the mower deck. This can usually be done by loosening the one or two screws located on the blade.
Loosen the bolts holding the engine to the mower deck and break the engine free from the deck. Detach any wires or cords connecting the engine to the deck or the handlebar.
Fashion a bracket from the stainless steel sheet metal that mounts the engine on its side at a 90-degree angle. This allows the drive shaft to be located in the proper position to attach the cogs and chain.
Mount the cog to the drive shaft and connect the chain to the go-kart's axle cog. Attach the gas tube to the carburetor and connect all of the electrical connections as they were on the lawnmower.
Pull the cord and get started racing!
I am sure that a helmet is now required to have fun ! but my fat old butt is still willing to go go carting.
Chocolate Cake Bath Salt Recipe
The yummy chocolate cake scent is perfect for chocolate lovers and chocoholics. The simple recipe uses easy-to-find ingredients that you may already have at home.
1 cup Epsom salts
1 cup sea salt or kosher salt (we like course grain, but it doesn't matter)
3 tsp. cocoa powder
1/2 tsp. cinnamon
1 tsp. vanilla extract
1 tsp. oil (almond, olive, sunflower or other good quality oil)
In a clean, dry bowl, add together the dry ingredients and mix very thoroughly. Add the vanilla extract and oil. Mix very well again to ensure that the oil is completely blended in. Transfer to small clean jars or cello bags and close tightly.
------------------------------------------ "Semi-Homemade" Chocolate Orange Bath Salt Recipe
Orange or citrus scented bath salts are very easy to find in your local discount or drug store. Jazz them up with a just a few ingredients to make aromatic Chocolate Orange Bath Salts. Your chocolate loving friends will adore them!
1 cup store bought orange scented bath salts
1 cup Epsom salts
2-3 tsp. cocoa powder
1/2 tsp. cinnamon (optional)
In a clean, dry bowl, add together the all ingredients and mix thoroughly. Transfer to small clean jars or bags and close tightly.
----------------------------------------- Chocolate Mint Bath Salt Recipe
Have more mint growing in your yard than you know what to do with? Use some dried, crumbled mint in this refreshing Chocolate Mint Bath Salt recipe.
1 cup sea salt or kosher salt
1 cup Epsom salts
2-3 tsp. cocoa powder
5 drops essential oil of peppermint (optional)
3 tbs. dried, crushed mint leaves.
In a clean, dry bowl, add together the dry ingredients and mix very thoroughly. Add the peppermint oil if desired and mix very well again. Transfer to small clean jars or cello bags and close tightly. If you don't like herbs floating in your bath water, place ingredients in the center off a piece of muslin or cheesecloth and tie closed before allowing the bath water to run through it.
-------------------------------------- Soothing Chocolate Almond Bath Salts
The addition of powdered milk makes this combination luxurious and soothing!
1 cup dried powdered milk
1 cup sea salt, Epsom salt, or a mixture of both
2 tbs. of almond oil
2-3 tsp. cocoa powder
1/2 tsp. almond extract (optional) - This is only to scent the mixture. Do not use more.
In a clean, dry bowl, add together the dry ingredients and mix thoroughly. Add the almond oil and almond extract (if desired) and mix very well again. Transfer to small clean jars or cello bags and close tightly.
Bath salts start with salt, of course! A variety of salts can be used and they can be combined for texture and interest by using both fine and coarse salt. The most common types of salt used are Epsom salt, kosher salt or sea salt. A basic recipe for bath salts is as follows. Then oils are added for scent. These can be fragrance oils or essential oils. Fragrance oils tend to be cheaper because they are man-made, but essential oils last a long time because only a small amount is needed for a powerful scent. Either kind will work well in bath salts. Bath salts can be plain or colored with a few drops of food coloring to make them more vibrant and attractive.
------------------------------------------ Basic Bath Salt Recipe
2 cups Epsom salts
1 teaspoon glycerin
2-3 drops scented oil as desired
2-3 drops food coloring as desired
Bath salts need to mixed in a plastic container that can be discarded or in a large, resealable plastic bag. Combine all ingredients together until well mixed.
Clumping can sometimes be a problem with homemade bath salts. Adding glycerin helps prevent clumps and also has the additional benefit of moisturizing skin. When placing you bath salts in bottles or jars for storage or gift-giving, it is important to wash and dry them at least six hours beforehand to prevent moisture from being introduced into the bath salts. Bath salts should also be kept tightly capped, as the damp bathroom air will make the salts lumpy.
For people with very dry skin or other skin conditions, this second recipe is especially good. It contains baking soda and milk, both of which are good for the skin.
------------------------------------------ Dry Skin Bath Salts
½ cup baking soda
½ cup dry powdered milk
1 cup Epsom salts
1 cup sea salt
Fragrance and coloring as desired
Mix all ingredients well and place in bottles or jars.
This last recipe is for bubbling bath salts. Many people prefer to have bubbles in their baths, so this recipe combines both.
------------------------------------------ Bubbling Bath Salts
2 cups kosher salt
1 cup fine sea salt
2-3 drops almond oil
2-3 drops food coloring
¼ cup baby shampoo
Combine the first three ingredients until smooth. Drizzle with baby shampoo. Mix well. Spread in an even layer on a cookie sheet covered with wax paper or parchment paper. Allow to dry. Store until ready for use.
Bath salts make a wonderful, luxurious gift. They can be packaged in decorative, small glass jars or bottles. The lids can be covered with fabric and secured with ribbon or raffia around the neck of the bottle. A small card with directions and a list of ingredients can be added. About 1/3 cup of salts can be used in standard tubs, while garden tub will call for twice that much. To make the salts attractive and fun, cosmetic grade glitter could be added or the bath salts could be colored in several shades and placed in the jar one color at a time for a layered effect.
I pack my salts into 1908 canning jars and give away as gifts all year long.
Lightly beat 2 large egg yolks and divide evenly among 5 small
containers. Use liquid food coloring, adding a few drops at a time,
to color each mixture as desired. Apply colors with small clean paint
brush before baking cookies.
1 c Elmer's glue
2 1/2 c Liquid starch
In a medium bowl, mix glue and 1 cup of the starch together. Add a few drops of red/yellow food coloring (to make orange). Cover bowl and let it stand overnight.
The next day slowly stir in 1 to 1 1/2 cups of the starch until a big glop forms. Pour off extra starch. Store in a covered container or place in individual zip-loc bags to be included in the kid's treat bags.
--------------------------------------- Clown Face Make-up
This homemade hobbyhorse is perfect for kids who are rearing to go. Fashioned from a pair of old blue jeans, it requires no sewing. Just gather some string, felt, glue, yarn, polyester filling (available at craft stores), and a 3-foot-long wooden dowel with a 3/4-inch diameter. Then, follow these six steps.
1. Cut off one jean leg about 2 feet up from the hem. Turn the leg inside out and use string to tightly tie the bottom closed.
2. Now, turn the leg right side out and glue on felt eyes and nostrils.
3. For the horse's mane and forelock, arrange 8-inch lengths of yarn into four bunches of 35 strands. Tie each bunch in the center with another strand.
4. Starting 2 inches above the horse's eyes in the center of the pant leg, cut 8 3/4-inch vertical slits (spaced a half inch apart). Weave one bunch of yarn through the first two slits, so that the ends stick out and resemble a forelock. Weave the other bunches through the remaining slits to create the mane.
5. For ears, cut the back pockets from the jeans and use string to tie the tops closed. Cut ear slits in the head and insert the tied ends of the pockets into them.
6. Stuff the horse's head (up to its ears) with polyester filling. Insert one end of the wooden dowel. Then, pack the neck with more filling and tightly tie the lower edge of the neck to the dowel. Finally, tie a string bridle around the horse's nose.
1 (19.8 oz) pkg. fudge brownie mix
1/4 to 1/2 c kahlua
(or strong, cold black coffee)
3 (3.5 oz) boxes Jello chocolate mousse
8 Frozen Heath or Skor candy bars
1 (8oz) carton Chocolate Cool Whip
[if you can't find chocolate cool Whip, 2, 8 oz cont. (or just 1, 12 oz.) of regular Cool Whip will do] 1 (8 oz) carton Cool Whip
•Bake brownies according to package, cool
•Poke holes in brownies with fork
•Pour kahlua (or coffee) over and set pan aside
•Make mousse according to package
•Break candy bars into small pieces in food processor or by tapping them (in the wrappers) with hammer
•Crumble half the brownies in bottom of glass trifle dish (or lg. glass mixing bowl)
•Cover with 1/2 of the mousse
•Layer with 1/2 of the candy bars
•Layer with chocolate cool whip (or 1/2 of reg. Cool Whip)
•Repeat with remaining ingredients
1 1/4 cups of soft butter
2 cups of sugar
2 teaspoons of vanilla extract
2 cups flour
3/4 cup cocoa
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup chopped Macadamia nuts (or any other type of nuts)
1/2 cup chocolate chips
Tip: You can omit the nuts if desired, but they do make the recipe much better.
Cream together the butter and sugar, then mix in the eggs and vanilla. Blend the dry ingredients together (including cocoa) and mix this into the butter and sugar mixture. Add the chocolate chips and nuts. Place teaspoonfuls of this mixture onto a cookie sheet that you have greased.
Bake at 350° for eight minutes or a bit longer. Be sure not to over bake. These cookies swell up while cooking but will level out as they cool.
Cool this Super Duper Chocolate Cookies Recipe on the sheet for sixty seconds or so, then remove to a wire rack.
Warm Heart of Romaine Salad with Roquefort & Prosciutto Vinaigrette
This wonderful warm salad uses German prosciutto, which is increasingly available in supermarkets and is cured with juniper berries for a delicious, unique flavor.
1/2 tablespoon Bavarian mustard
3/4 cup canola oil
1/3 cup red wine vinegar
1/4 cup water
Salt and pepper to taste
3/4 cup diced German prosciutto
3/4 teaspoon minced garlic
1/3 cup crumbled Roqufort or other blue cheese
4 hearts of Romaine, trimmed Preparation:
First, make vinaigrette: Place mustard in a medium bowl. Whisk in half the oil and half the vinegar until blended. Add remaining oil and vinegar, and whisk until blended. Whisk in water, and season with salt and pepper.
Next, place prosciutto in a small skillet on medium heat and sauté until browning. Add garlic and brown it for a few seconds. Add vinaigrette and cook just until warm. Meanwhile, loosen each Romaine heart on a salad plate. Sprinkle lettuce with cheese and drizzle with prosciutto and warm dressing. Serve.
Red Cabbage Salad with Bavarian Smoked Cheese
(Rotkohlsalat mit Räucherkäse)
1 lb German pickled red cabbage, drained well
1/2 small onion, sliced thinly
1/2 small green pepper, cored and sliced thinly
1 teaspoon poppy seeds
2 tablespoons rapeseed oil
5 oz Bavarian smoked cheese
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Put the cabbage into a large bowl and toss in the sliced onion, green pepper and poppy seeds. Season to taste then mix in the oil.
Cut the cheese into small cubes and mix lightly in the bowl.
Line a platter with salad leaves and pile on the cabbage salad. Add croutons if desired.
Recipe courtesy of Roz Denny, Modern German Cooking.
As with most plants, your success in growing this coveted plant will depend both on what kind of growing conditions you can provide and which varieties you select to grow. Lavender plants will tolerate many growing conditions, but it thrives in warm, well-drained soil and full sun. Like many plants grown for their essential oils, a lean soil will encourage a higher concentration of oils. An alkaline and especially chalky soil will enhance lavenders fragrance. While you can grow lavender in Zone 5, it is unlikely you will ever have a lavender hedge. More realistically you can expect to have plants that will do well when the weather cooperates and to experience the occasional loss of a plant or two after a severe winter or a wet, humid summer.
Lavender is a tough plant and is extremely drought resistant, once established. However, when first starting you lavender plants, don't be afraid to give them a handful of compost in the planting hole and to keep them regularly watered during their first growing season.
It is dampness, more than cold, that is responsible for killing lavender plants. Dampness can come in the form of wet roots during the winter months or high humidity in the summer. If humidity is a problem, make sure you have plenty of space between your plants for air flow and always plant in a sunny location. Areas where the ground routinely freezes and thaws throughout the winter will benefit from a layer of mulch applied after the ground initially freezes. Also protect your lavender plants from harsh winter winds. Planting next to a stone or brick wall will provide additional heat and protection.
Although lavender plants get regularly pruned simply by harvesting the flowers, to keep them well shaped and to encourage new growth, a bit of spring pruning is in order. The taller varieties can be cut back by approximately one-third their height. Lower growing varieties can either be pruned back by a couple of inches or cut down to new growth. If you live in an area where lavender suffers some winter die-back, don't even think about pruning your plants until you see some new green growth at the base of the plant. If you disturb the plants too soon in the season, they give up trying.
You can always grow your lavender in pots and move it to follow the sun or even bring it indoors for the winter. Keep in mind that although lavender has a large, spreading root system, it prefers growing in a tight spot. A pot that can accommodate the rootball with a couple of inches to spare would be a good choice. Too large a pot will only encourage excessive dampness.
Insure that the pot has plenty of drainage. To prevent water pooling in the pot, place about an inch of loose gravel at the bottom. Rot root is one of the few problems experienced by lavender plants. Use a loose, soilless mix for planting and remember that container grown lavender will require more water than garden grown plants. How much more depends on the environment and the type of pot. Water when the soil, not the plant, appears dry and water at the base of the plant to limit dampness on the foliage. Compact varieties make the best choices for containers. Some to try are L. angustifolia ‘Nana Alba’ and Spanish lavender (L. stoechas subsp. pedunculata)
This is what I used.
Silk scarf or piece of silk 5 inches by 20 inches or 10 by 10 inches.
1 cup of flaxseed
1/2 cup of lavender buds.
Fold silk with right sides together so it is about 5 by 10 inches
Stitch the silk together leaving a small opening at the end.
Turn silk right side out.
Mix flaxseed and lavender buds.
Fill the silk with the lavender flaxseed mixture.
Sew closed. Option
Make a slighter larger sleeve of silk for a cover for your pillow. This can be left open on one end so it is easy to remove the sleeve for washing. Add a few drops of lavender to refresh scent as needed. Squeezing the pillow will also help release the wonderful scent.
Potpourri # 1 This is a light sweet fresh scent.
Mix and set aside
1 1/2 tablespoons orris root
2 drops of peppermint essential oil
6 drops of lavender essential oil
2 cups lavender leaves
1/2 cup peppermint leaves
2 cups lavender buds
2 cups rose buds and rose petals
Mix all ingredients or layer as desired in a dish or glass bowl. Sprinkle a few rose buds on top if desired. Cover and let oils infiltrate the flowers for about 2 to 4 weeks.
Potpourri # 2 This is nice and spicy, it reminds me of Christmas.
1 cup lavender leaves
1/2 cup peppermint leaves
2 cups dried flowers, (any kind)
1 cup lavender buds
10 whole cloves
2 cinnamon sticks
1 tablespoon of orris root
5 drops of lavender essential oil
4 drops of sweet orange essential oil
4 drops of cinnamon essential oil
2 drops of clove essential oil
Add all ingredients and store in a closed container for a couple of weeks to absorb the scent.
Potpourri # 3 This is a simple lavender recipe.
2 1/2 cups of lavender buds
1 cup of rose buds or rose petals
4 drops of lavender essential oil
Potpourri isn't a science. Put in what ever kinds of plant material you have on hand. Orange peels, cedar chips, pine cones, and spices. Play with it and add any spices you like or any combination of oils that are pleasing to you. Just have fun!
Lavender Bath Salt
This bath salt recipe is is a simple one.
2 ounces or 4 tablespoons of salt
18 drops of lavender essential oil
mix and store in a jar or bottle,
Add 1 or 2 tablespoons to your bath water. Soak and enjoy this relaxing bath.
Lavender Orange bath salt
2 ounces or 4 tablespoons of sea salt.
10 drops of lavender oil.
8 drops of bergamot or sweet orange oil.
Mix and bottle.
Use 1 or 2 tablespoons per bath.
This lavender bath salt recipe shouldn't be used in the summer or if you're using a tanning booth. This can cause photosensitivity for about 24 hours. I love this scent in the winter months. This recipe is very uplifting for the spirit.
Immunity booster bath salt
This is a good recipe for when you feel like you're coming down with something.
2 ounces or 4 tablespoons of salt
8 drops lavender
8 drops tea tree oil
2 drops lemon myrtle
Mix and bottle.
Use 2 tablespoons per bath. Then go to bed and try to get some rest.
These eggs would make a delightful craft for Easter or just home decorations.
1. Use room temp eggs...this makes the insides less stiff and much easier to remove. White eggs are good but brown eggs (yard eggs) are a bit stronger.
2. Make a hole with a needle/hat pin. You will need to make a hole on each end and try to line them up..makes it so much easier when blowing the insides out. Slowly twist it in a circular motion until the tiny hole appears. DO NOT rush in!
3. Once you have your holes in both ends take a long needle (I use a doll making needle) and pierce the yolk. Gently cover both ends where the holes are with your fingers and very gently shake the egg to loosen the insides.
4. Now it's time for the FUN part. Hold the egg in between both hands and with your mouth start blowing through the hole (one on top is usually the best one to use) Keep blowing until you feel confident that all the insides are outside. TIP: You can try using a 3cc syringe without the needle.
5. Once you feel that all the insides are outside then it's time to give this little egg a bath. Squirt or run COLD water into the egg. You need to do the "Bath" several times. Fill it up with cold water....place fingers over the holes and gently shake...then blow out the water the same way
you did in step #4.
6. Dry the egg off. This can be done one of two ways: . A) place egg in the microwave on several paper towels for 15-30 seconds or B) you can bake them in the oven at 300 degrees for about 10 minutes. I crumple reynolds wrap up around each egg so they don't roll around. Cooking in the oven I believe makes them much stronger.
7. Once the egg has cooled down to room temp I cover in SoBo glue or Decoupage and let dry overnight. This helps strengthen and seal up any small cracks that may be in the egg. Make sure you poke a needle through the top so you will have a place to put the ribbon for hanging. (if you want to make an ornamental one...you can also make or buy a pretty egg holder to place the decorated egg in if you don't want a hanging one but you will need to keep the top hole open until the end)
8. Once the egg has sat overnight you are ready to decorate. This can be done any many ways.
•Paper napkins. Ever been to a tea or party and the napkin was almost to pretty to use, well those work great. You cut out the designs on the napkin and you have a pretty piece to apply to your egg.
•Tissue paper is another great item. You can cut it or hand tear it to make your designs. Tissue paper
in a solid color works great too by crinkling it up and then placing on egg...kinda gives it that crackled effect.
•Another great source is this little tiny box you are sitting in front of and reading my blog on.....yes..your computer. There are some wonderful free vintage sites you can go to, find some really great images to print out and use. Just make sure that it's alright to do that....most of the free sites I have found do not mind as long as it is for your use and some don't mind what you do with them. Just ask if you have any doubts.
9. Now that you have your design all figured out it's time to decorate your egg. I LOVE to use decoupage,it's a great glue and sealer at the same time. I like to draw an egg on paper the size of my actual egg and place my design out on it.....if you are familiar with decoupage then you know it dries fairly quickly.
Take your image and cover the back in the decoupage or glue (just make sure it dries clear) and place on your egg.
Gently smooth with your finger to remove any air bubbles.
If using tissue paper I usually gently pat the paper down.
Do this step with each image you want on the egg. Let it sit and dry for about 30 minutes.
Once dry, cover the entire egg in the decoupage or glue and let dry overnight. (This might be one good reason to keep that one hole on top so you have means to hang egg so it can dry even)
Now for the really fun step but only if you want to add some "Bling" to your egg. You can do several different things.....you can
a) put glitter in just certain places...highlight an area and make it POP
b)cover the whole thing in glitter or German glass.
For both all you have to do is cover the area in the decoupage or glue, sprinkle the glitter and then let it sit overnight to dry. You may want to repeat the process to cover the egg completely.