Sunday, March 27, 2011

The new U.S. Census data

The new U.S. Census data: 6 key takeaways
America is getting less white, and a lot more Hispanic. Demographically, the middle of the U.S. is Plato, Mo. And that's just the beginning...
posted on March 25, 2011, at 1:25 PM

A crowd in New York City's Times Square: For the first time since the Civil War, the number of blacks living in the Big Apple declined, by 5 percent from 2000 to 2010. Photo: CC BY: La Citta Vita
On Thursday, the U.S. Census Bureau unveiled its final population tallies from the 2010 census. The findings? We are more diverse, more suburban, and more Western than we were 10 years ago, among many other changes. Here, six of the biggest stories from the Census Bureau's data dump:

1. America's Hispanic population in booming
The number of Hispanic residents hit 50.5 million in 2010, a 43 percent leap from 2000. Hispanics, at 16.3 percent of the U.S. population (and 23 percent of the under-18 group), are now solidly America's largest minority. The Hispanic population grew throughout the country, in larger numbers than expected, and now represents a plurality of New Mexico's population — Texas and California are getting close to having Hispanic pluralities as well.
2. The population center of the U.S. shifted west
In 1790, the middle point of the U.S. population distribution was in Kent County, Md. In 2000, it was in Edgar Springs, Mo. By 2010, it was 2.7 miles northeast of Plato, Mo., a 40 mile shift westward from the 2000 mean population center. The move westward to Plato, population 109, reflects the growth of America's West.
3. Suburbs are up, cities are down
The U.S. population shifted more to the suburbs over the past 10 years, with the suburban outskirts of Houston, Atlanta, and Dallas, especially, seeing record growth. Meanwhile, Detroit lost about a quarter of its population — about 65 people a day for a decade — and New Orleans shrank by 30 percent, due mostly to Hurricane Katrina. Because population determines congressional redistricting, "there will be a shift of political power to suburban areas, period," says Tim Storey at the National Council of State Legislatures.

4. New York City and Washington D.C. are getting whiter
For the first time since the 1950s, the percentage of white residents in Washington, D.C. grew — by a remarkable 31.6 percent, in fact — while the black population fell by 11.5 percent. The black (non-Hispanic) population in New York City dropped by 5 percent — the first decline since the Civil War — to 23 percent of the city. New York's white population fell by 3 percent, to 33 percent, which is still the smallest drop since the 1950s. New York's Asian community expanded by 32 percent, and its Hispanic numbers grew by 8 percent. Officially, New York gained about 166,000 residents.

5. Blacks are returning to the South
Where did all the African-Americans go? Many went south. Metro Atlanta supplanted Chicago for the first time as America's second-largest black community, after New York, and the percentage of black Americans living in the South rose to 67 percent, the highest share since the 1960s. In the 1910s, 90 percent of African-Americans lived in the South. Along with New York, Washington, and Chicago, blacks also left Detroit and Los Angeles in large numbers. "This is the decade of black flight," says Brooking Institution chief demographer William Frey. "It's a new age for African-Americans."

6. Viva la Sun Belt!
Some of the last decade's biggest population growth was in the Southwest. Nevada's population tops the list, expanding 35 percent, and Texas, Arizona, and Utah all grew by more than 20 percent. Maricopa, Ariz., grew by 4,000 percent.

Wednesday, March 23, 2011


This is new mold material is much superior to ordinary gelatin (mold glue) and is very easily made. It does not shrink or dry out like ordinary casting gelatins. If made according to directions it will retain all its original qualities indefinitely, and can be remelted when necessary.
Flake Gelatin . . . . . . . 4 1/2 pounds
Water . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 1/2 pints
Glycerin . . . . . .. . . . . 9 pounds
Glucose . . . . . . . . . . .1 pound
Denatured Alcohol . . 1 ounce
PROCESS: Place the gelatin in a large container and pour the water over same; then cover container with damp cloth to prevent evaporation. Mix up thoroughly with the hands every ten minutes to keep water evenly distributed, otherwise the bottom will absorb too much water and the top portion will dry out and harden. Replace cloth after each mixing. After gelatin is thoroughly softened, squeeze out all surplus water (if any), and place in double boiler and melt. A few minutes after it begins to melt start stirring and keep stirring until the gelatin is all melted and free from lumps. Then add the glycerin (which should have previously been heated) and stir until blended. Continue to stir until all ingredients are thoroughly incorporated and remove from fire. Now add the alcohol and stir until thoroughly blended with the rest of the mixture. The compound is now ready for use. Do not add water when remelting.

A double boiler can easily be made by using two metal buckets or pans, one larger than the other. Put a few stones in the bottom of the larger container and partly fill with water. Then put mold compound into smaller container and place it in large container. There should be enough water in large container to come up at least half way on outside of small container. The stones are to prevent the small container from touching the bottom and thereby burning the mixture. Leave unused material in container in which it was melted.

HOW TO GET THE ABOVE COMPOUND TO MAKE MOLDS: First select the article you desire to duplicate. Almost all articles can be duplicated, such as celluloid novelties, metal toys, dolls, etc. Articles cast in compositions, book-ends, emblems, etc.

If the article to be cast is very simple, with one entire side flat like a book-end, emblem, or plaque, it is only necessary to lay it on some flat, smooth surface, like glass or marble, face up. Place a frame of wood or metal bars around it, having oiled the object and other parts well; then pour the pliable mold composition over it. However, for more complicated things such as door stops and novelties in forms of dogs, cats, dolls, etc., you will have to make a mold in two pieces.

To make two piece molds, plaster should be used to reinforce the mold. To make good molds you must bear in mind that both this compound and rubber gives under the weight of the casting material. Therefore, some means must be used to hold molds made from these materials in shape. It must be made so that the mold can easily be removed from the reinforcing shell so that the mold may then be removed from the casting without damaging it.

After you have applied the molding composition or last coat of rubber and compound starts to set - spread about 1/2 inch thickness of plaster mortar over it with a trowel, let set and then remove it. For full body molds in two parts - make one half, let it stand until set, cut notches in the plaster shell around the edge that will be spliced to the other half and then apply rubber and plaster to the other half. To prevent the plaster sticking, coat the splice edge of the first half with two coats of ordinary rubber cement.
Purchase a sheet of GUTTA-PERCHA, about one-fourth of an inch thick. Cut it about size desired. Soak it in NAPTHA (which causes it to swell), then soak it in hot water. This makes the sheet of Gutta-Percha soft and mushy in appearance, somewhat like a wet rag. Then in this condition, press it against your model, slowly but firmly.
When there are small cavities such as the mouth or eyes of a figure, be sure that you get the rubber all the way in . . . the better you press it, the sharper the mold will be.
Try it on a plaque first, for that can be made in one piece mold. When it is sufficiently pressed, have some plaster mixed and pour it over the mold. This will harden quickly and so hold your rubber mold (Gutta-Percha), in place until it gradually dries out. It will then retain its shape. This plaster shell should always be used to hold mold rigid while casts are being made.
To make a mold of a figure in the round (showing both sides) the mold must be made in two pieces, with shell of plaster to hold them in place, same a described previously.

Tuesday, March 22, 2011

Irish Crochet Rose and Shamrock Edging

Irish Crochet Rose and Shamrock Edging 

Pattern Directions -
ch = chain
dc = double crochet
dtr = double treble
ea = each
sc = single crochet
sk = skip
sl st = slip stitch
sp = space
sps = spaces
st = stitch
sts = stitches
tr = treble

How To Slip Stitch (sl st) = Insert hook in stitch, wrap thread or yarn over hook, pull thread or yarn through the stitch and through the loop on the hook, at the same time. A slip stitch does not add any height and is used to join a chain or stitch to another place in the crochet piece.

For a double treble (dtr), the yarn or thread is wrapped around the hook 3 times before beginning the stitch. How To Do A Double Treble

In this pattern, (depending on your own crochet tension) each time that it calls for a double treble (dtr) in the second row edging directions, you may find that a triple treble will work better for you (if a double treble isn't going to comfortably reach to the stitch that it's supposed to, then you'll know that it will work better to substitute a triple treble for the double treble in that spot). How To Do A Triple Treble

Materials: Use thread size of your choice or yarn weight of your choice. Some of the most commonly used sizes are:
Size 10 cotton thread with a size 8 steel hook
Sport weight yarn with a size F hook
Worsted weight yarn with a size G hook

Rose Directions
Rose, Starting Chain: Chain 6. Join (with a slip stitch) to form a circle.
Rnd 1: ch 5 (counts as first dc and first ch-2), * Dc in circle, ch 2 **, repeat from * to ** 4 more times, join with sl st in the 3rd ch of the beginning ch-5 of round. (There should be 6 ch-2 spaces in this round.)
Rnd 2: ch 1, sc in same stitch as sl st just made at end of previous round, * 5 dc in next ch-2 sp, sc in next dc, **, repeat from * to ** around.
Rnd 3: ch 1, sl st in base in the back of the sc just made at end of previous row, * ch 5, sc in base at the back of next sc (between petals) **, repeat from * to ** around. (When finished, if the ch-5 loops are in front of the petals, pull on the chain-5 loops so that they are behind the petals, before working the next round.)
Rnd 4: ch 1, then work (sc, 7 dc, sc) all in first ch-5 sp * (sc, 7 dc, sc) all in next ch-5 sp **, repeat from * to ** around.
To finish rose: End off. Weave in ends.

For photos showing how to do parts of the rose pattern above, see this web page:

Edging Directions -
First, make the number of individual roses that will be needed for the length of the edging.
Edging is started with a shamrock: Chain 18, sl st in the 10th ch, to form a circle with part of the chain. (3 sc, 3 dc, 3 tr) in the ch-10 circle just made (this will cover half of the circle). Next, join to a rose by doing a sl st in the 4th dc (center) of any outside petal of a rose (be sure right side of rose is on the same side as right side of the started shamrock), then continue to crochet the rest of the shamrock circle, as follows: (3 tr, 3 dc, 3 sc) in remainder of the ch-10 circle (first shamrock leaf formed). Ch 10, sl st in the 10th ch of the beginning shamrock chain (this is the same spot as the base of first leaf made), for next leaf: work (3 sc, 3 dc, 6 tr, 3 dc, 3 sc) all in the ch-10 circle just made. When forming third leaf, join to next rose, as follows: Ch 10, sl st in the 10th ch of the beginning shamrock chain, (3 sc, 3 dc, 3 tr) in the ch-10 circle just made (this will cover half of the circle). Next, join to a rose by doing a sl st in the 4th dc (center) of any outside petal of a rose (be sure right side of rose is on the same side as right side of the started shamrock), then continue to crochet the rest of the shamrock circle, as follows: (3 tr, 3 dc, 3 sc) in remainder of the ch-10 circle. Sl st in base of leaf. To form shamrock stem: sc in ea of remaining 8 chains of the beginning ch-18. End off. Weave in end.

Begin another shamrock: Follow directions same as for first shamrock. The only difference is that, when you are ready to slip stitch the first shamrock leaf to a rose, instead of attaching to a new rose, you will be attaching (with a slip stitch) to the right-hand side of the last rose that you attached to the previous shamrock.
Continue for length needed: Continue making additional shamrocks and attaching roses until you have the length that you want for your edging.
Second Row: This row will be worked along the top of the joined roses and shamrocks (the top is the side with the shamrock stems.) Join thread to the center stitch of a petal of the first rose (this should be the petal which is two petals over to the right away from the petal that a shamrock leaf is attached to), ch 8, * dc in center stitch of next petal, ch 4, dtr in the sl stitch connection between the shamrock and the rose, ch 4, dc in center of side of leaf, sl st into end of stem, ch 3, skip 3 sts of stem, sl st in next st, ch 3, dc in center of side of next leaf, ch 4, dtr over connection, ch 4, dc in petal of next rose, ch 4; repeat from *.
Third Row: Ch 1 to turn, sc in ea st of previous row (in other words, sc in ea dc and in ea dtr, with 3 sc in ea ch-3 space and 4 sc in ea ch-4 space).
Fourth Row: ch 6, * skip 3 sts, dc in next sc, ch 3; repeat from *, with dc over dc of first row.
Fifth Row: Ch 1 to turn, sc in sc, 3 sc in ch-3 space, repeat across row.
To finish: End off. Weave in ends.

For comparison, here's what the 1917 Rose and Edging Directions said, exactly as written and in its entirety - 1917 Rose Directions
Materials: Richardson's R. M. C. Cordonnet No. 80 and a No. 12 hook.
For The Roses: Make 6 ch sts, join, forming a circle, 5 ch sts.
First Row: * 1 d c into circle, 2 ch sts; repeat * for 6 sps, join.
Second Row * 1 s c, 5 d c over sp, 1 s c into d c, forming 1 petal; repeat * for 6 petals.
Third Row: * 5 ch sts, 1 s c back of s c between petals; repeat * for 6 loops.
Fourth Row: * 1 s c, 7 d c, 1 s c into each loop completing rose; break thread. Make enough roses for length required.
Edging (1917 Directions): Make the roses. For the Shamrock, make 18 ch sts, sl st into the 10th st, forming circle.
First Row: 3 s c, 3 d c, 3 t c, sl st to center of petal of rose, 3 t c, 3 d c, 3 s c, all into circle, forming 1st leaf, 10 ch sts, sl st into the 10th st, 3 s c, 3 d c, 6 t c, 3 d c, 3 s c into circle, forming 2nd leaf, repeat first leaf joining to next rose, 8 s c over stem; break thread. Join rose and shamrock alternately for the length required.

Second Row: Join thread to center of petal of rose, 6 ch sts, * 1 d c into next petal, 3 ch sts, 1 d t c, over connection between shamrock and rose, 3 ch sts, 1 d c into center of side of leaf, sl st into end of stem, 3 ch sts, skip 3 sts of stem, sl st into next st, 3 ch sts, 1 d c into center of side of next leaf, 3 ch sts, 1 d t c over connection, 3 ch sts, 1 d c into petal, 3 ch sts; repeat *.
Third Row: 1 sc into each st of previous row.
Fourth Row: 7 ch sts, * skip 3 sts, 1 d c into next s c, 3 ch sts; repeat *, making dc over dc of first row.
Fifth Row: 1 sc into each st of previous row.
- - End of 1917 directions.

Check Out Donnas spring cArds

Donnas new spring cards. Donna can be found over at the forum The tincat chat

Thursday, March 17, 2011

Happy Saint Patrick's Day Recipe


1 (3-pound) corned beef brisket (uncooked), in brine

10 cups cold water
6 cups dark beer
5 bay leaves crushed
2 teaspoons black peppercorns
2 whole allspice berries
2 whole cloves 1 large head green cabbage (about 2 pounds), cut into 8 thick wedges
8 small new potatoes (about 1 1/4 pounds), halved
4 carrots cut in half
Freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon pickling spice.


Get the one with the spices already in the package.

How to cook
In a large pot place corn beef, spices ,beer and water and bring to a boil.Then turn down and simmer for 3 hours and 45 mins or until fork slides into meat.
NOTE : Do not boil the meat simmer on low for a fork tender textureTransfer the corned beef to a cutting board and cover tightly with foil to keep warm.
Add the cabbage , potatoes and carrots to the cooking liquid and bring to a boil. Lower the
heat and simmer until the vegetables are tender, about 20 minutes.
Using a slotted spoon, transfer the cabbage to a large platter. Slice the corned beef
across the grain of the meat into thin slices. Lay the slices over the cabbage and
surround it with the potatoes. Ladle some of the hot cooking liquid over the
corned beef and season with pepper. Serve immediately with a mustard or horseradish sauce.
Cook's Note: Leftover corned beef makes great corned beef hash.

Horseradish Sauce:

3/4 cup mayonnaise
3/4 cup sour cream
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons jarred grated horseradish (with liquid)
1/2 teaspoon grated lemon zest
2 teaspoons kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper

In a small bowl, mix together the mayonnaise, sour cream, horseradish,
zest, and 2 teaspoons salt. Season generously with pepper to taste.
Refrigerate the horseradish sauce for at least 30 minutes before serving.
Yield: about 1 3/4 cups

Tuesday, March 15, 2011

Cute Mothers Day Idea Candy Shoe Box

Found this very cute  shoe candy box on a blog.
This would make a great mothers day gift or friends gift anytime to cheer up that special friend.

Monday, March 14, 2011

Flowers From Egg Cartons

Two Kid friendly egg carton projects.

Tutorial can be found HERE
Second a simple version.
Make Tulips with Old Egg Cartons

This is an easy project kids can do by themselves or with very little help, and these fs make a great Mother's Day present. Make a bunch for a lovely Spring bouquet!

Kid Tested!
You will need:
Clean cardboard egg cartons
Green chenille (pipe cleaners)
Elmer's glue

Cut the egg carton into separate cups, leaving some of the middle "pop-up" sections. Cut the main cups into the pointed shape of the tulip petals. With the point of the scissors or a sharp pencil, poke a hole in the bottom of each cup. Paint and decorate each cup however you like.

Cut the little center "pop-up" sections between the egg cups into small pointed shapes that will go beneath the tulip cups. Poke a hole in the center of each and paint green.

When the pieces are dry, poke a piece of green chenille through the holes. Tie a loop on the end in the cup so it can't pull back out, and add a dab of glue between the two sections. Shape the chenille into leaf shapes and leave a few inches at the bottom for the stem.

Sunday, March 13, 2011

Paper Daffodils

Paper Daffodils instructions found HERE.
Great Pictures uses punch.

Instructions found HERE.
No punch needed

Thursday, March 10, 2011

Crochet Slipper Pattern

Ballet Slippers

COATS and CLARK'S O.N.T. "Speed-Cro-Sheen" MERCERIZED COTTON, Art. C.44:2 balls o£ No. 126 Spanish Red and 1 ball each of No. 1 White and No. 12 Black.
Milwards Steel Crochet Hook No. 0.
GAUGE: Sole--6 sc make I inch; 6 rows make 1 inch.
Directions are written for Small Size. Changes for Medium and Large Sizes are in parentheses.

SOLE (Make 2) . . . Starting at center with Red, ch 30 (36-42).
1st rnd: 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 15 (18-21) ch, dc in next 12 (15-18) ch; make 7 dc in last ch (toe end); working along opposite side of starting chain, make dc in next 12 (15-18) ch, sc in next 15 (18-21) ch, 2 sc in same place as first 3 sc were made.

2nd rnd: Sc in each st around, increasing across heel and toe as necessary to keep work flat-- to inc 1 sc, make 2 sc in 1 sc. Repeat 2nd rnd until 8 (8-9) rnds have been completed. At end of last rnd, join and break off.

UPPER . . . Starting at back with Red, make a ch slightly longer than outer edge of sole, having an even number of chains. Join with sl st.

1st rnd: Ch 1, in same place as sl st make sc, ch 3 and sc; * skip next 3 ch, in next ch make sc, ch 3 and sc; skip next 2 ch, in next ch make sc, ch 3 and sc. Repeat from * around. Join to first sc. Break off.

2nd rnd: Attach White to first loop, in each loop around make sc, ch 3 and sc. join to first sc. Break off.

3rd rnd: Attach Black to first loop, work in pattern around. Join. Break off'.

4th rnd: Attach Red to first loop, work in pattern around. Join. Break off.

5th rnd. Repeat 2nd rnd.

6th rnd- Mark the center front (between loops) with a pin, attach Black at back, work in pattern to within 2nd loop preceding marker, dec 1 loop--to dec 1 loop, sc in the next 2 loops, working off these 2 sc as 1 sc--ch 3, sc in same loop, dec 1 loop on opposite side of marker and continue in pattern around. Join and break off.

7th rnd: Attach Red and work as for 6th rnd. Now work in short rows as follows: 1st Row: Mark center front with a pin, mark the 8th loop on each side of pin. Attach White to 8th loop preceding center marker, sc in same loop and work in pattern to within 2nd loop preceding center marker, dec 1 loop, dec another loop on other side of marker, continue in pattern to within last marker, sc in last loop. Break off.

2nd Row: Attach Black to first loop, sc in same loop, work in pattern to within 2nd loop preceding center marker, dec 1 loop, dec another loop on other side of marker, continue in pattern to within last loop, sc in last loop. Break off.

3rd Row: Attach Red to 8th loop preceding center marker on 7th rnd, sc in same place, ch 1, sc in first sc on first short Row, ch 1, sc in first loop on same Row, ch 1, sc in first sc on 2nd Row, ch 1, sc in first loop on same Row, in next loop make sc, ch 3 and sc; dec 1 loop, dec another loop, in next loop make sc, ch 3 and sc; ch 1, sc in next loop, ch 1, sc in last sc, ch 1, sc in last loop on first Row, ch 1, sc in last sc on same Row, ch 1, sc in 8th loop following center marker on 7th rnd. Break off.

Last rnd: Attach Red at back, make 2 sc in each loop to within first short Row, sc in each sc and in each ch 1 to within next loop, make 2 sc in next loop, work off next 2 loops as 1 sc, 2 sc in next loop, sc in each ch 1 and in each sc across short rows, 2 sc in each remaining loop. Join and break off.

Sew soles together. Sew upper to sole. Make another slipper the same way.

Monday, March 7, 2011

Bread Dough Roses

Design by Oak Leaf Studio

Materials Needed:

4 tbsp Aleene's Tacky Glue (Gold bottle, use silver bottle for a porcelain look.)
4 slices white bread NO CRUSTS.
4 tbsp Corn Starch.
2 tbsp Cold Cream
2 tsp Lemon juice
2 tbsp White acrylic paint. (you can use any color you like, but some have more pigment. To get the color you want you will have to experiment with the amount to add)


Mix all together in container until it begins to stick together.
Empty out on a board and knead until smooth.
Wrap in Saran wrap and store in fridge.
Use as clay. Cut with cookie cutters, sculpt with it, make beads - anything you like!
Air dry. Do not bake.
Finished articles can be painted and varnished.
This recipe will keep for ages. I tested a ball wrapped in Saran and kept in the fridge, after two months it was still as good as new.
Add the colour as it is more pleasing to work with and also makes a good base for painting.

Saturday, March 5, 2011

Winter In Oregon

It's winter in Oregon
And the gentle breezes blow,
40 miles per hour at 10 degrees!
Oh, how I love Oregon,
When the snow's up to your butt;
You take a breath of winter air
And your nose is frozen shut.
Yes, the weather here is wonderful,
You may think I'm a fool.
I could never leave Oregon,
Cause I'm frozen to the stool

Pipe cleaner roses made by Donna

Pipe cleaner roses so easy by Donna
Tutorial found HERE

Turn a basic pipe cleaner into a charming cocktail ring -- the perfect present for bridesmaids and flower girls -- using this simple process from Wendy Baner.
Tools and Materials
  • Six pipe cleaners in color of desired rose
  • One green pipe cleaner
Ring How-To1. Group six pipe cleaners with ends even, and twist in the middle about 5 times to create something that looks like whiskers.
2. Put the twist under the intended ring finger and cross the "whiskers" over the top of the finger to measure the ring size. Remove pipe cleaners from finger and twist to size.
3. Open and spread out the "legs." Make a very tiny bend on the end of each leg, pressing back onto itself. Start rolling each leg from the bend into the center, pulling back as you roll to make the roll as tight as possible.
4. Arrange each rolled "petal" of the rose. Begin by turning the two innermost rolls to face each other, and work outward, arranging and organizing the petals until you are happy with the rose's shape.
5. To add a leaf, twist a green pipe cleaner around the top of the ring, where it meets the flower. Roll each leg of the green pipe cleaner into the center as you did for the rose. Pinch the outside of each roll to give it a leaf shape.

Carrot Box made by Donna and Instructions

HERE is the pattern for the carrot box

Friday, March 4, 2011

Newest Cards made by Ginny

These are a couple of cards made by surfing /Ginny over on the forum board.
Wonderful job Ginny. She does excellent iris folding on many of her cards.