Tuesday, August 30, 2011

Shabby Chic Card tutorial

While surfing on the  net yesterday I came across this card and site. She has wonderful tutorials and this darling shabby card made of bits and pieces of all kinds of stuff.
 From here you can add all sorts of items ,your own photos and artwork dressed with tons of knick knacks. Go wild She did. Card Tutorial; HERE
 Check out her  her blog list of tutorials HERE

Monday, August 29, 2011

Scrapbook Layout Ideas

Found a fresh  layout blog for scrapbooking.
She has wonderful ideas and simple how to's.
For Sue and all who are fighting .

Sunday, August 28, 2011

Free Plans

Free Woodworking plans link found HERE

Make your own paint

With cheap, non-toxic ingredients

So where to get the least costly, non-toxic, low-energy paint?

The answer lies in a trip to the milk-bar. A couple of litres of skim milk will form the base for enough paint to begin experimenting. The next stop is the hardware store for some builder's lime (also called slaked or hydrated lime) and plaster of Paris. Apart from some water and your choice of pigment, these are all the ingredients you will need.

There are several variations on what is usually referred to as `milk paint'. One involves mixing lime into a thick paste with a little water, then gradually adding milk until it reaches a paint-like consistency. I was told about this method by a friend of mine, Salvatore, who had used it while growing up in Italy in the 1930's and 40's. Both ingredients were widely available, and used with various pigments, milk paint is attractive and durable. I tried the recipe using bottled skim milk, though Salvatore recommends milk directly from the cow, with the cream skimmed from the top.
Sieve the lime before mixing it with the milk, and let it sit for several hours, though found that it was still quite lumpy. Straining the mixture through muslin makes it much smoother. I used the paint on old unpainted weatherboards, and got good coverage-once it dried it actually looked like paint!

An internet search revealed some other paint recipes. One that I tried consists of plaster of Paris as the main solid ingredient, mixed with a little lime and skim milk. Again, filtering through muslin cloth to remove lumps is a good idea. This paint was similar to the lime paint, but where the lime-only paint was powdery when dry, the plaster of Paris set a lot harder.

Creating colours

There are many options for colouring milk paint. For a straight white, zinc oxide or titanium dioxide are good. Calcium carbonate or chalk will make the paint more opaque. Iron oxide (rust) is easy to manufacture at home from steel wool or iron filings, and gives the paint a nice ochre colour. Many traditional paints used wild berries for colouring. Again, the muslin cloth comes in handy for removing pips. If you're concerned about being able to replicate your colours, you could compromise and buy some ready-made pigment from an art supplies shop.
Cleaning up

Besides the obvious advantage of not having to inhale pungent vapours, cleaning up these paints with water was dead simple. I didn't have to worry too much about tipping the cleaning-up water on the garden, although too much lime can be a bad thing for soil. Lime and milk paint also comes off hands and clothes much more readily than other paint. While lime is alkaline and can cause skin to dry out and feel `burnt' after prolonged contact, it is easy to dip your hands in a bucket while you paint, or wear gloves. If you get lime in your eyes flush them with cold water immediately.

Finishing the surface

One disadvantage of milk paint is that it can be marked by water. Sealing will eliminate this problem, and will make the finish generally easier to clean in `high splash' areas like the kitchen. A range of finishes can be used, including linseed oil and Danish oil. The roughness of the surface caused by particles of lime can be smoothed with steel wool or sandpaper before applying the finish.

What the ingredients do

Why milk and lime? The first reason is that they are cheap and readily available, which is why milk and lime mixes were the most commonly used paint until the mid-1800's. Most importantly, though, they have a synergistic effect that makes great paint. Milk contains a salt called casein, which reacts with calcium in lime to form calcium caseinate, a resin that binds itself with pigments in the paint and the surface the paint is applied to. Many people complain of the great difficulty in removing the bottom layer of paint on old doors and window frames-in many cases, that's well-cured milk paint. The combination also means that once cured, milk paint will no longer be alkaline.
Make your own milk paint:
Home-made paint recipes
Basic lime and milk paint
Mix in one part of lime with twelve parts of skim milk (you can measure by either weight or volume). Add pigment until desired colour is achieved.
Lime, milk and plaster of Paris paint
Ingredients:
Skim milk 1.5 cups
Lime 30 g
Plaster of Paris 240 g
Pigment
Mix skim milk with lime while stirring briskly until the lime is thoroughly dispersed.
Add plaster of Paris and pigment until desired colour is achieved
Notes:
Allow the mixture to sit for an hour or until it stops bubbling.
When painting, stir the mixture every five minutes to prevent the solid ingredients settling.
Washing up
Use water, and a little soap. Unlike commercial synthetic paints, the residue can safely be poured onto the garden, though be careful not to tip too much lime on one area.

Blank Recipe cards


Saturday, August 27, 2011

OUT SPOT !


Stain Guidelines If you know what type of stain is on the cloth, the following suggestions are very helpful in removing new and sometimes older stains.

Scorch/Burn Marks Scorching permanently damages the fabric. The heat burns and weakens the fibers, and can also melt manufactured fibers, such as polyester. If the damage is slight you might be able to improve the look. Brush the area to remove any charring. If the tablecloth is washable, rub liquid detergent into the scorched area. Launder. If the stain remains, bleach with an all-fabric non-chlorine bleach.

Alcoholic Drinks, Wine Launder with detergent in the hottest water safe for the fabric. If it is a new stain, do not use soap (bar, flake, or detergents containing natural soap), since soap could make the stain permanent or at least much more difficult to remove. If it is an old stain, soak in a solution of water with one half of a scoop of powered non-chlorine bleach. Watch carefully. Soak for at least 2 hours, (more if necessary). Line dry in sun. Soak tough stains for 30 minutes in 1 quart of warm water and 1 teaspoon of enzyme presoak product. The removal of old or set-in stains may require washing with non-chlorine powdered bleach that is safe for the fabric. Always check for colorfastness first. If all the sugars from the wine or alcohol are not removed, a brown stain will appear when the fabric is heated in the dryer or is ironed, as the sugar becomes caramelized in the heat.

Tomato-based Stains Saturate the area with pretreatment laundry stain remover. Wait a couple of minutes for the product to penetrate the stain. For stubborn stains, rub with heavy-duty liquid detergent. Launder immediately. If the stain remains, soak the entire tablecloth in a diluted solution of all-fabric powered bleach. Be aware that all the colors may lighten. If the stain persists and the tablecloth is white or colorfast, soak in a diluted solution of liquid chlorine bleach and water. However, be sure to read the tablecloth label regarding the use of bleach. Bleach can damage some dyes and prints, and bleaching damage is irreversible. Also, if the stain is not removed in 15 minutes, it cannot be removed by bleaching and further bleaching will only weaken the fabric.

Blood Treat new blood stains immediately! Flush cold water through the stain and scrape off crusted material. Soak for 15 minutes in a mixture of 1 quart lukewarm water, 1/2 teaspoon liquid hand dish washing detergent, and 1 tablespoon ammonia. Use cool/lukewarm water. Rub gently from the back to loosen stain. Soak another 15 minutes in above mixture. Rinse. Soak in an enzyme product for at least 30 minutes. Soak aged stains for several hours. Launder normally. If the blood stain is not completely removed by this process, wet the stain with hydrogen peroxide and a few drops of ammonia. Caution: Do not leave this mixture on the cloth longer than 15 minutes. Rinse with cool water. If the blood stain has dried, PRE-treat the area with PRE-wash stain remover, liquid laundry detergent, or a paste of granular laundry product and water. Launder using bleach that is safe for the type of fabric.

Candle Wax Harden the wax by rubbing with ice. Remove the surface wax by carefully scraping with the dull edge of a butter knife, if that doesn't work, you can try the next suggestion. Sandwich the wax stain between folded paper towels and press down lightly on top of the towel with a warm (not hot) iron. Replace the paper towels frequently to absorb more wax and to prevent transferring the stain to new areas. Continue as long as wax is being removed.

Yellowing, Graying If it is an old stain, soak the tablecloth in a solution of water with one half of a scoop of powered non-chlorine bleach. Watch carefully. Look for signs that the dye is colorfast. Soak for at least 4 hours, (more if necessary). Line dry in the sun. Repeat the process if still yellow.

Dye Stains, Dye Transfer Soak the entire tablecloth in a diluted solution of powered non-chlorine bleach. If the stain remains and the tablecloth is colorfast, soak the entire tablecloth in a dilute solution of liquid chlorine bleach and water. Again, test for colorfastness first and watch carefully. Not recommended for tablecloths that were made prior to 1935. Check the "Dating Your Tablecloth" section for clues as to the approximate age. Caution: Chlorine bleach may change the color of the tablecloth or cause irreversible damage especially in PRE-1940s tablecloths. Therefore, it is important to check for color fastness before using. If the stain does not come out within 15 minutes of bleaching, it cannot be removed by this method and any further exposure to bleach will weaken the fabric and remove the color. I do not recommend this for general stain removal. Note: To check for color fastness to liquid chlorine bleach, mix 1 tablespoon of bleach with 1/4 cup of water. Use an eyedropper to put a drop of this solution on a hidden seam in the tablecloth. Let it stand two minutes, then blot dry. If there is no color change, it is probably safe to use the product. Powdered non-chorine bleaches have directions for colorfastness tests on their boxes. There are also a number of dye removers/strippers, which are available in drug and grocery stores. However, color removers will also take out fabric colors as well as the stain so be careful.

Mildew Mildew is a growing organism that must have warmth, darkness, and moisture to survive. Mildew actually eats cotton and linen fibers and can also attack manufactured fibers, causing permanent damage and a weakening of fibers and fabrics. To treat mildew, first carefully brush or shake off mildewed area. It is very difficult to remove and will damage the value of a vintage tablecloth. PRE-treat the stains by rubbing the areas with a heavy-duty liquid detergent. Then launder in the hottest water safe for the fabric, using bleach safe for fabric. Always check for colorfastness and for the age of the tablecloth before using any type of bleach. Let the item dry in the sun. Badly mildewed fabric may be damaged beyond repair. Old stains may respond to flushing with dry cleaning fluids. Carefully read and follow the instructions on the product label.



Rust Removing rust stains can be difficult. These stains cannot be removed with normal laundering. Do not use chlorine bleach, as chlorine bleach will make the stains permanent. Small stains may be removed with a few drops of a commercial rust remover, or by repeated applications of lemon juice and salt on the stain. Do not let the fabric dry between applications.

Coffee, Tea Saturate the stain with a pretreatment stain remover. Rub the stain with a heavy-duty liquid detergent and launder in the hottest water safe for the fabric. If it is a new stain, do not use soap (bar, flake, or detergents containing natural soap), since soap could make the stain permanent or at least more difficult to remove. If it is an old stain, soak the tablecloth in a solution of water with one half scoop powered non-chlorine bleach. Watch carefully. Soak for at least 2 hours, (more if necessary). Line dry in sun.

You can also use liquid laundry detergent and oxygen color safe bleach or non-chlorine powdered bleach. If safe for the specific fabric try this old home remedy, boil fabric in a solution of 4 teaspoons of cream of tartar per pint of water. Rinse thoroughly. Rust removers that contain hydrofluoric acid are extremely toxic, can burn the skin, and will damage the porcelain finish on appliances and sinks. Use as a last resort. I do recommend using the Carbona Rust remover products, but again, watch your cloths carefully.

Smoke/Odors Some of the older tablecloths that have been stored for many years have that "old smell" and yellowing in the creases. You will also find tablecloths that have been in a smoker's home with that "tell tale" smell. I have not had any problems removing either of these problems from my tablecloths. If the tablecloth is not seriously frayed or damaged in any other way, soak the tablecloth is a solution of tepid water and one scoop of non-chlorine powdered bleach or Oxy. Watch carefully for any signs of dyes fading. Remove immediately if you see a green or red "tinged" water. Soak overnight and place outside out all day in the sun. Repeat if necessary, but it should work in one treatment.





Salmon Recipes

Yes readers for anyone who has more fish in the freezer then any one person can eat here are a few recipes to change it up a bit. I love Salmon but when fishing season comes it seems to be all the big freezer has in it.
Now I have used tuna in replacement for these recipes and they still tastes great.I also play with the spices a bit to change up the flavors. The salmon pie recipe is not my hubbys liking he does not like green peas,so i have put chili peppers to replace the soup .It's OK but he loves it.




Tuesday, August 23, 2011

Salmon Salad Recipe

From the Islands one of my hubby's favorites is the simple salmon salad.


Saturday, August 13, 2011

Wobble cArd

Instructions to make this cute wobble card along with animal heads can be found  HERE

Vanessa Christenson Flower Ring Tutorial


Here is a perfecy fun funky ring for anyone who loves jewelry 
With a few and easy steps you can make this lovely little (okay kinda big) fabric flower ring for whoever you chose!
Created by: Vanessa Christenson / Her other Tutorials
 

Friday, August 12, 2011

Cricket Tea Cosy

Pennies per hour of pleasure is a uK based internet shop .
Her patterns are listed free or you can help with a small donation.Check out this cute tea cozy in the form of a sweater.

Get the pattern Free or make a small donation to charity

Make your Own Paste Papers

If you scrapbook or craft this is a wonderful easy to follow paste paper tutorial.Found over on Lili's bookbinding site. Check out this paper tutorial.

Thursday, August 11, 2011

Crochet Bedspread Instructions


MATERIALS:
CLARK'S O.N.T. MERCERIZED BEDSPREAD COTTON, White or Ecru.

Single Size: 35 balls.
Double Size: 43 balls.
Steel Crochet Hook No. 8.
GAUGE: Each block measures about 6 inches square.
For single size spread about 70 x 106 inches, including fringe, make 11 x 17 blocks.
For double size spread about 88 x 106 inches, including fringe, make 14 x 17 blocks.

BLOCK . . . Ch 8. Join with sl st to form ring.
1st rnd: Ch 1, 16 sc in ring. Join with sl st in 1st sc.
2nd rnd: Ch 1, sc in same place as sl st, * ch 3, skip 1 sc, sc in next sc. Repeat from * around, joining last ch-3 with sl st in 1st sc.
3rd rnd; Sl st in next sp, in each sp around make sc, h dc, 3 dc, h dc and sc (8 petals).
4th rnd: * Ch 5, sc behind next sc on last loop rnd. Repeat from * around, ending with ch 5.
5th rnd: In each loop around make sc, h dc, dc, 4 tr, dc, h dc and sc.
6th rnd: * Ch 6, sc behind next sc on last loop rnd, ch 9, sl st in 9th ch from hook, in this ch-9 loop make sc, h dc, 3 dc, 5 tr, 3 dc, h dc and sc, sl st in sc at base of loop. Repeat from * around.
7th rnd: In each ch-6 loop make sc, h dc, dc, 5 tr, dc, h dc, and sc. Join with sl st in 1st sc of 1st petal.
8th rnd: Sl st in h dc and in dc, ch 1, sc in same place as last sl st, * ch 4, sc in next st, ch 6, skip 3 tr, sc in next st, ch 4, sc in next st, ch 6, sc in dc of next petal. Repeat from * around, joining last ch-6 with sl st in 1st sc.
9th rnd: Sl st in 4 ch, in sc and in next ch, sc in ch-6 loop, ch 4, sc in same loop, * ch 6, in next ch-6 loop make sc, ch 4 and sc. Repeat from * around. Join.
10th rnd: Sl st in 4 ch, in sc and in next 2 ch, ch 4, in same loop make 2 tr, ch 5 and 3 tr, * (ch 6, in next loop make sc, ch 4 and sc) 3 times; ch 6, in next loop make 3 tr, ch 5 and 3 tr. Repeat from * around. Join with sl st in top st of 1st ch-4.
11th rnd: Ch 4, tr in next 2 tr, * in corner sp make 3 tr, ch 5 and 3 tr, tr in next 3 tr, ch 6, sc in next loop, (ch 6, in next loop make sc, ch 4 and sc) twice; ch 6, sc in next loop, ch 6, tr in next 3 tr. Repeat from * around. Join.
12th rnd: Ch 4, tr in 5 tr, * in next loop make 3 tr, ch 5 and 3 tr, tr in 6 tr, 3 tr in next loop, ch 6, sc in next loop, ch 6, in next loop make sc, ch 4 and sc, ch 6, sc in next loop, ch 6, 3 tr in next loop, tr in next 6 tr. Repeat from * around. Join.
13th rnd: Ch 4, tr in 8 tr, * in next loop make 3 tr, ch 5 and 3 tr, tr in 12 tr, 3 tr in next loop, (ch 3, tr in next loop) twice; ch 3, 3 tr in next loop, tr in next 12 tr. Repeat from * around. Join and fasten off.

Make necessary number of blocks and sew them together on wrong side with neat over and-over stitches, catching only one loop of each st on each edge. Attach thread to center st of a corner loop, ch 9, tr in same st, * ch 4, skip 3 sts, tr in next st. Repeat from * around one short and two long edges, making tr, ch 5 and tr at corners. Fasten off.

FRINGE . . . Make fringe in every other sp around one short and two long edges as follows: Cut 25 strands each 9 inches long. Double these strands, forming a loop. Pull loop through 1st sp and draw loose ends through loop. Pull tight. Trim evenly.

Wednesday, August 10, 2011

Punched Tin Light Shields Recycle

Great recycle craft for old soda cans and tuna cans . We made these as Kids as well as many other people .Instructions found HERE

Friday, August 5, 2011

Shoe spats

Found over on  Mrs Greens Info Be sure to check out all the great tutorials on this site.
We have made these but out of old jeans with the zipper in the front.This is a crocheted version and very cute.

The example shown was crocheted using sport weight yarn and a size F hook. Finished size will vary based on yarn selection, hook size, and tension. This pattern is written for making the right spat. To change the pattern for the left foot, work R10 in back loops only instead of front.


R1: With color A, Ch 57, turn.
R2: Starting in 3rd ch from hook, dc 55, ch 2, turn.
R3: Dc 55, ch 2, turn.
R4: Dc 3; ch 2, sk next 2 st; dc 50, ch 2, turn.
R5: *Dc 4, dc 2 in next st* repeat 10 times; dc 2 in ch sp, dc 3, ch 2, turn.
R6-7: Dc 65, ch 2, turn.
R8: Dc 3; ch 2, sk next 2 st; dc 60, ch 2, turn.
R9: *Dc 5, dc 2 in next st* repeat 10 times; dc 2 in ch sp, dc 3, ch 2, turn.
R10: Working in front loops only, dc 75, ch 2, turn.
R11: Dc 75, ch 2, turn.
R12: Dc 2 in each st across (150 st), ch 2, turn.
R13: Dc 2 in each st across (300 st). Fasten off and change to color B.
R14: Sl st into last st of previous row, ch 1, hdc 299. Fasten off and change to color A.
R15: Sl st into the end of R9, working in the open stitches left alongside R10; ch 2, dc 74, ch 2, turn.
R16: Dc 75, ch 2, turn.
R17: *Dc 6, dc 2 in next st* repeat 10 times, dc 5, ch 2, turn.
R18-19: Dc 85, ch 2, turn.
R20: Dc 2 in each st across (170 st), ch 2, turn.
R21: Dc 2 in each st across (340 st). Fasten off and change to color B.
R22: Sl st into last st of previous row, ch 1, hdc 339. Fasten off.
Weave in all ends and sew buttons into place to finish.

Thursday, August 4, 2011

Recycle T-Shirt Dog Toys

Found this great dog tog with instructions over on  craftbits.com She calls it a tugga toy
Check out how to make this recycle T-SHIRT Dog Tugga Toy.

T shirt Memory Quilt

This is a site with instructions to make and recycle tee shirts into a memory quilt.
Similar to my race shirt quilt. instructions found HERE

Wednesday, August 3, 2011

Scrapbooking sites .Digi

 Mypinkstamper.com : http://www.mypinkstamper.com/ This blogger LOVES pink. She has a pink craft room that she calls her “Pink Loft” as well as a pink bone folder and chair etc. You can find many how to videos on this site. This blogger uses her Cricut machine for creating scrapbook pages, goodie bags, and cards. She has recently designed her own rubber stamps and has starred in two Cricut DVD’s.


 Stephaniehowell.typepad.com : http://stephaniehowell.typepad.com/ Many great ideas can be found on this blog. She creates cards as well as scrapbook layouts. The varied embellishments really spruced up the page layouts. Stephanie also shares her life with her readers including her soldier husband.

Just-a-scrappin.blogspot.com : http://just-a-scrappin.blogspot.com/ If you own a Cricut this blog site is a great one for you. She shows you many different templates for cutting using your Cricut. Then you can use those cutouts to create scrapbook layouts. There are also how-to videos included on this blog.

 Aboverubiesstudio.com :http://www.aboverubiesstudio.com/ This blogger posts daily and usually has videos showing various techniques and new products. There is a lot of information available on this blog. She compares and contracts various products such as the Gypsy vs. the Sure Cuts A Lot.

 Creationswithchristina.com :http://www.creationswithchristina.com/ Lots of video tutorials on this blog using the Cricut. This blogger creates cards, favors and scrapbook pages using the Cricut and other various methods.

Tuesday, August 2, 2011

Not Your Mama's Foil

From about.com
How to use foil not like your mama did !

Save Brown Sugar

The next time you go for that brown sugar while you're baking and it's a brick, place on a sheet of aluminum foil, preheat the oven to three hundred degrees, cook for five minutes and voila, no more brick, just brown sugar.

Use as a Fabric Softener

The next time you're drying clothes and you've run out of fabric softener, simply use a bit of aluminum foil roll into a ball throw in the dryer and dry normally. the aluminum foil attracts the static that would usually be on your clothes.

Improve Your Ironing

Now we'll use aluminum foil to improve an ironing board. First, remove the cover from the ironing board, place a piece of aluminum foil at the top where you do most of your ironing and replace the cover. The aluminum foil will hold the heat from the iron and help press the clothes from underneath.

Sharpen Scissors

The next time your scissors are getting dull, instead of getting a new pair, take several layers of aluminum foil and cut through them several times. this quickly sharpens the scissors and works on any type of scissors, cheap or expensive.

Make Grilled Cheese

This is my favorite. We're going to use aluminum foil to make a grilled cheese sandwich. First put all the ingredients for the sandwich in some foil, you can use butter or not, and fold the aluminum foil into a pouch. This is fun when you go on trip with kids and stop at hotel rooms because we're going to use an iron to cook the sandwich. We'll make sure the iron is heated up and we're going to cook that on both sides for several minutes until its toasted. Here's what the sandwich looks like when it's done.

Monday, August 1, 2011